​

Ridgeback puppies grow like mushrooms after the rain and that growth is intense.
​During growth, the cartilages on the ears sometimes think that they can grow in their own way and stop listening to the rest of the body and go the wrong way. 
You will notice this if your puppy's ears are not set/laid symmetrically and if one or both ears start to literally levitate and separate from the skull up and on the side.

​All this happens and can happen in the stages before the teeth change, and if you don't want "Dumbo the elephant", this stage is the most important in order to make a correction. 
In the phase before the complete change of teeth, ear taping occurs if you want your dog
to have nicely carried ears (on proper position).
This procedure is most similar to wearing braces for children's teeth :)

Once the dentition of your puppy is finished, it will not be possible to correct this and your dog will stay Mr.Sideway-Ear

Sometimes the ear sattle down by itself and comes on the good place but sometimes not.
When the ear is not flying too much, it is enough to massage the root of the ear gently and to push ears down to skull (from the root to the top of the ear) while petting your pupp. (like you want to gkue the ears on cheeks). Also in this period it would be great if you could add to the puppy food rose hip powder which is rich with vitamin C and helps the cartilages.

Ear Taping is nothing horrible or paintful for your puppy, it doesn't take long and the results are more than excellent.
Normally you should tape your ears 3-4 days, after this remove the tape for several days to rest the ears and see if they "remember" the place where they should normally be. If ears still fly, repeat this as long as the ears sattle down....Some dogs need more, and some less time but result will be absolutely visible.

For ear taping you will need:
Naughty ears :)
Alcochol
Cotton balls or pads
Tape
​Baby oil

1
Clean both sides of the puppy ear. 
Underside and topside should be cleaned with alcochol so you take away dirt and oil of the skin and the fur. ​This will ensure that the tape sticks well. Be careful with alcochol. Put it on the cotton pads and try that alcochol does not end in puppy ear canal or eyes.

2
Dry the ears!
​Alcochol will dry up fast but you can use dry cotton pad or paper to dry it up completely.

3 
Roughly measure the lenght of the ear by puting the tape stripe beside the ear.
​The tape should be long as the ear x 2, and then add 1 more lenght which will be bellow the jaw between 2 ears connected. Look at the drawing so you may better understand all lenghts and positioning of the tape on the ears.

4
Apply the tape on the underside of the first ear. Massage it gently and press it so it may stick good to the skin of the ear so you may ensure good contact. Then bring the tape under the jaw (with sticky side of the tape exposed outwards) and apply on the underside of the second ear. Massage the tape again so you get the good contact within tape and the ear.
When applying the tape, it should be applied closer to the front edge of the ear (the edge nearest the eye) than directly down the middle. This will allow the ear to fold down the center more naturally. ​

5
Check the positioning of the ears after taping.
​The both ear tips should be the last point of contact on the tape and completely simetrical.

6
​Now you have sticky part of the tape between the ears facing outwards.
You need to cover it with other tape.
Measure how long this connection part (between ear tips) of the tape is, and then prepare a new tape that is few centimeters longer. With this you will ensure excess runnig up the fur side (outer side) of both ears. It is not necessary that you run this to the top/root part of the outer ear and that this tape
follows the lenght of the tape which is positioned under the ears. It can be shorter.
​You should again massage the tape to ensure good contact.

7
After 3-4 days you should remove the tape so the ears can relax.
It will be super if the ears remembered the proper position, but if not, repeat this procedure in 3-5 days and do so as long as this naughty ears understand where their proper place is.
Ater taking off the tape there will be some waxy leftovers on the ear.
Use the baby oil and take it off with oiled cotton pad.
Oil is melting all waxy things.
​There will be some reddering on the places where the tape was applied, it is nothing to be concerned because this will go away.

We will assume that you before you start to communicate with the breeder have studied the breed well, done exhaustive research, met some Ridgebacks and their owners and asked them everything what interest you and that you know approximately what awaits you in your future life with your Ridgeback.

​Once you have prepared yourself and are ready for the challenges of this wonderful breed, you can start thinking about whether you want a female or a male.
We are experienced breeders and we will suggest you is it for you better choice a male or female for you depending on a puppy temperament as well.

 Males can be more dominant, territorial, and easily distracted than female dogs.
They are bigger and stronger and more muscular than females.
But, also tend to be more demanding of attention, affectionate and focused on human beings than female dogs.  Females are generally are more independent and inconsistent in their focus on their human companions, but not in every case.

Females can be every bit as loving but after gaining their owners affections awhile, they may prefer to go off on their own. They have thein own business to do.
This doesn’t mean that females aren’t affectionate, but they seem to be more “choosey” with their moments of cuddles and kisses and might be more reserved, similar how the cats act.

Just imagine how it is in the nature.
​Females are the ones that go to hunt and bring the food, and males are just resting, going around and protect the pack when they have to. This tells a lot about male and female attitudes.
​
Males are "simple", comparing to females which are bit complicated especially when they are in the heat.
This occurs twice a year for two to three weeks when the ​dominance and territorial behaviour can also be seen in females.
Because of the heat you will have periods when you will have to be careful when walking your bitch.
It is better to walk her in areas where there are not many dogs. 
Males are going to smell the bitch and they will try to hop on your girl, especially when the heat is in its zenith. Any unneutered male dog will be boisterous and persistent, at best, and accidental mating is always a possibility. 

Nothing can stop hungry or the horny one.
These are two main instincts of animals. It is all about to eat and mate. And yes..."the heat" periods are much more hard for male owners. If you have a bitch, you just go away from other dogs and are a bit more careful, but male owners will have males that sing, do not eat and are pretty crazy if they smell the lady with perfume somewhere around.

If your male dog is not neutered, you need to make sure he has an area to exercise in that he can’t escape from – especially if there are female dogs on heat nearby.

Bitches also have often false pregnancies after heats and this is why we wrote that you will have hormon storms from time to time. Males leave more urin marks around, when they walk than females, but in the heat, bitch is marking with urine much more. She is leaving the invitation cards everywhere so the pretty guys may find her easier. It is her instinct, she wants to be mated.

When it comes to trainability, there are mixed opinions.
Some say that females are easier to train because they mature earlier, are smarter, and don’t get as easily distracted as males.
On the other hand, males desire to please their owners significantly more than females, which sets them up to learn and obey commands more willingly especially when they know they will get a treat.
They are more dependent on their owners, will require more guidance, direction, and are more attentive to their owners in general life.
An example of this difference could be a female’s ability to remain completely focused on herself and what she’s doing throughout the day. In contrast, a male will typically be right by your side, perhaps even following you around, wanting to know what you are doing. ​

Males are "attention whores" :)
They have a tendency to remain like goofy, playful kids their whole lives.

On dogshows, males dominate more because they are more attractive. They show off more, they cooperate better with handlers, they are easier to be stacked, and mostly they win over females for the BOB titles (Best of breed) title because they are more attractive. 

Although personalities can vary, it’s nearly always the males that grow to be bigger,
stronger, and more powerful and are significantly larger than females..
This is certainly an important factor to consider when choosing which sex
will be appropriate for you and your family.

The average range for MALE ridgebacks:
Height:  (65-69 cm)
Weight: (40-47 kg)
​
The average range for FEMALE ridgebacks:
Height: (60-66 cm)
Weight: (31-39 kg)

​Males will usually continue to pack on muscle until around 2,5 years old, with most females stopping by around 18 months.

So both male and female have pros and cons.
These pros and cons are not general  because every dog is an individual, has own perosnality and spirit, and on the end the most important thing is to purchase the dog from responsible breeder.

Responsible breeder will never combine & mate agressive or unstable, unsecure dogs, so this character will not end up in progeny and in your home!So ih you have a stabile dog, it will be easy to juggle with these differencies no matter you will end with male or female on your sofa! 

Lot of details we see already in puppy age, and we always suggest owners which puppy is best for them depending on an experience and their lifestlye.
For us the most important is the "perfect match"
​with the owner no matter if is it male or female Ridgeback.

"He loooves to play with his sister Gala, and even they are adults, they still fight for the toy like they are still puppies. This is usualy the biggest attraction in the park :)
​But, at home his favourite place is a "sofa"....actually he is a sofa :), because he constantly sleeps on my shoulder like a parrot :)" - Ema explained and thank God we see that on the photos. :)

 Ax is a lifght of her life and she cannot even imagine how it would be without him. There is so much love and positive energy he gives, and no one can bring in so much happines in Ema's life. Everything can be changed except that the Ax is a favourite "sofa" of all.
​The home without a dog is just a house.

So even if Ax is a serious instagrammer and even he has so many followers, we think he should leave his mark also in the ring...He is in the best age now. Powerful, matured and absolutely gorgeous male, so we hope that Ema will give us a hand and that we will go to some dogshow together, because this beautiful boy has to present himself to the wider audience!!!!! <3

​Apart from the fact that they are short coated larger dogs with a cool feature running down their back (note: approximately 5% of RRs are ridgeless), how much do you really know about the breed?

​Please take your time and LEARN about the breed (beyond its physical attributes)
​BEFORE you decide you want an RR.

​Did you know that RRs were bred to work (in a pack) independently of man?  
Working independently of man has resulted in a breed that is an independent thinker that is programmed to achieve its goals, not yours. 

Do you know why you should care about this trivia? 
You should care because it affects how you train your dog and should mitigate your expectations and understanding about the breed. If you put dog breed personality on a circular scale, if you think of where you would put breeds like Golden Retrievers or German Shepherd dogs (or any other breed that was designed to work closely with man), find the point on the opposite side of the scale (diametrically opposed) and that it where the RR would be found. 

​When you are working with/training RRs there has to be something “in it” for them or they will simply shut down ... this is one of the reasons that punishment /negative training does not work well for this breed.

​RRs are master manipulators (it goes back to the concept of them pleasing themselves), be it about food (more on that below), getting on the furniture, getting their toenails done (oh the drama) or simply walking nicely on lead. 

Put the time in and work with your dog .... there is no shortcut with this breed.
This is NOT a breed that you bring home and forget ... they are NOT a short haired Golden retriever that you can bring home, do very little and still end up with a nice social family pet.

This breed requires LIFELONG work and socialization.
Ignore your RR at your own peril as you may come home one day to a house that is destroyed or (even worse), a dog that has become fearful and phobic of things it does not know - this includes having their toenails done!!!!!!!

​Sadly in ~ 25 years of ridgeback rescue, I have seen too many ridgebacks that were inadequately trained and socialized that became fear biters.
Here is the deal with fear biters, once a RR has figured out that it can stop whatever it doesnt like or make the person/animal that it doesnt like go away by putting its mouth on someone or something, it WILL do it again. 
​Trust me when I tell you that there are few things scarier than a fear aggressive ridgeback wanting to stop something it doesnt like ... remember my comment about the breed wanting to please itself, not you.

​RRs are a very physical breed and are nasty little vampires as baby puppies that will bite any and everything that comes close to their mouths ... while most puppies (any breed) will do some biting, RR puppies are biters on steroids. This is the #1 complaint of all new puppy owners.

They WILL bite you and your children ... they will also body slam you and your family - especially young children who run and scream around the puppy. 
This is why many RR experienced owners and breeders will caution against getting a puppy when you have toddlers and younger children in the home.
​With time and consistent training, this too will pass .....
​BUT .... you have to live through /survive the first few months of a RR puppy life.

​RRs (most) are prey driven hounds. 
Apart from being an interesting fact, do you know why you should care? 
First ... while there are going to be people who tell you that they have dogs in an unfenced backyard or use e-fencing and that they take their dogs on wonderful off leash walks, the reality is that they are the exception, not the rule.

The vast majority of RRs will not respect an unfenced yard and/or an e-fence and will chase any and everything that runs. The thrill of the chase applies equally to off leash walks - most RRs should NOT be trusted off leash in an area that is not completely secure.

​This is also not a breed that should be walked by children .... while I occasionally see pictures of children on the end of a leash of a RR, the breed is too strong and the prey drive is too high in most dogs to make this safe ... I dont care how well leash trained your dog is.

​Food ... the master manipulator can go one of two ways: you have have a “I am starving” RR that will eat until it explodes or the I dont want that food, give me something else picky eater.

RRs are supposed to be lean athletic hounds - they are not supposed to have the outline of a lab.  There are waaaaaay too many people that have obese RRs that are in denial.

​Hopefully these musings will help set your expectations about the breed ... there is one thing that I didnt mention, to lovers of the breed, RRs are like potato chips or peanuts, one is never enough!!!
​
By Carole Bradley-Kennedy (as posted for RRCUS)

Rhodesian ridgeback standard clearly says:
Colour: Light wheaten to red wheaten
Wheaten is derived from the noun that describes grains that have that specific color
that is in the written standard of the breed, but if you ask us, this is also the colour of Africa.
​Savannah and desert shine in the same shades :).
Denise Flaim, the breed specialist judge and journalist from the US described it really good:
"Wheaten, which literally means the color of wheat, isn’t one flat, monochromatic color. If you look close up at a single Ridgeback hair, you will find that it’s actually banded, with light and dark shades ranging from a gold to a red. This variegation in the coat is what gives it “life.”
Look at these beautuful wheaten landscapes...this is excatly the colour that our breed has.

GCH VYRTUOUS CAMEO PERFORMANCE SC (USA)
​The most beautiful light-wheaten Ridgeback we have evers seen

We are so happy that we will add to our wheaten spectre one beautiful light wheaten girl from the last Komainu litter and then we will have a nice range of wheaten colours in our kennel.
Another light wheaten girl we have will also end up in breeding in other part of the Europe as she goes to the kennel, so we hope that the number of light wheaten dogs will start to rise and that the breed will be back on the track with its colours.

What is interesting about our Komainu litter is that we have a huge spectrum of wheaten shades :) from light wheaten to the red wheaten ones.

If you are not deep enough into the breed, you would probably say:
" Wooooo wo woooo...wait a minute!
In a previous text you wrote that Ridgebacks should not be too dark!
What about that dark puppy on the left side of a photo?".

Ridgeback puppies change coat colour while they grow. They start to change to a different color within a few short weeks after it's first day of birth. Although most of the change in color occurs within a few weeks, Ridgeback puppies will continue to change color all the way through puppy hood and adolescence, although to a much lesser, almost imperceptible degree. They eventually will settle into a their permanent coat color by the time they are about 6 to 7 months old.
So if you love some special wheaten shade, while choosing a puppy, look at the colour of puppy's forehead or legs below elbows. The wheaten shade on these parts of body will be the shade that your dog will have as an adult! Good to know, ha?! :)

So, it is important to understand that Ridgebacks should not be very dark.
It should not be mahogany or chocolate.
​These colours are not in Ridgeback standard.
Ridgebacks are "wheaten" in all shades from light-wheaten over 
(mid)-wheaten to the red-wheaten colour and we love them all.
​​

Nelson Mandela couldn't, even Patrick Swayze, Anthony Kiedis, David Bowie, Princess Charlene of Monaco,
Prince Rainier III of Monaco, Oliver Martinez, Charlize Theron, astronaut Leland Meldwin, Kylie Minoque,
Kit Harington, Kate Moss, Isiah Mustafa, Errol Flynn,
Jason Lewis, and tennis player Borna Čorić (who owns a girl Nala from our breeding <3), NBA player Blake Griffin, american football player Tim Tebow.......
​
Probably there are many more but we do not know who else is under the spell of this beautiful breed :)

Dog owners should know that regular cleaning of their dog's teeth is extremely important for their dog's health. 
As with humans, dogs develop plaque.
​Plaque is a gummy substance that forms on the teeth within a few hours after a meal.
Within 24 hours, plaque begins to harden by combining with salts that are present in the saliva. As the plaque continues to accumulate and mineralize, it eventually transforms into tartar. Tartar, also called calculus, is rough and porous and can develop above and below the gum line.

​There are two ways that tartar harms the teeth and gums.
First, tartar forms a rough surface serving as a place for bacteria to grow and multiply in the mouth. Bacteria can cause inflammation of the gums (gingivitis), which often results in painful bleeding. Gingivitis often progresses to periodontal disease, which leads to further inflammation, pain, and tooth loss (see handout "Dental Disease in Dogs" for further information). As tartar builds up along the gum line, it pushes the gums away from the roots of the teeth. As the gums recede, they expose the sensitive, enamel-free part of the tooth which causes sensitivity and pain and of course your dog will have a really bad smell from the mouth.

What we do? :)
Every few weeks we give our dogs to chew a raw bone (more about that you can read in our blog - "Bones do and don't"). It is important that the bone is previously frozen and defrozen on the room temperature.
When chewing the bone, your dog will perfectly clean the molars, premolars and incisors but since the dog does not use canine teeth for chewing, this is the only tooth you should try to clean.

INCISORS
​​Dogs have a total of 12 incisors in their mouths consisting of six incisors in their upper jaw and six incisors in the lower jaw. These single-rooted teeth have several functions.
​If you watch your dog chew on a bone, you'll likely notice that he doesn't seem to use his incisors much, but if you give your dog a bone with some meat attached, you may notice that he'll use this front teeth to rip and scrape the meat off the bone. 
For sake of comparison, the action is similar to when we remove kernels of corn on a cob.
On top of being used to scrape bones, those incisors also come handy for removing burrs from the coat and carrying objects around.

CANINE TEETH
Right next to the incisors are a dog's canine teeth.
Dogs have four canine teeth, two in the top and two in the bottom.
When the dog's mouth closes, these canine teeth should intersect nicely when they meet in a scissor bite. Canines are those sharp and pointy single-rooted teeth that are common in meat-eating animals.
​What are a dog's canine teeth used for? A dog's canine teeth were very important for survival purposes, as they allowed dogs to inflict several stabbing wounds to their prey. They also helped in catching and holding prey and tearing carcasses apart.

PREMOLARS
Dogs have a total of 16 premolars, eight in the upper jaw and eight in the lower one.
They are located behind the dog's canine teeth. Also known as cheek teeth, some of the farthest premolars are only seen when a dog's lips are pulled back. ​If you watch your dog chew on a toy or bone, you'll likely see him tilt his head to the side so that he can use his premolars.
 In the wild these teeth are used to rip meat away from bones. The arrangement of these teeth somewhat resembles shears with a serrated blade, an arrangement that helps dogs break food into smaller pieces, courtesy of these teeths' sharp edges.

MOLARS
There are four molars in the dog's top jaw and six molars in the lower jaw. Often people become aware of their existence only when the vet mentions that one or more of these teeth need extracted.
What are a dog's molars used for? We can get a clue from these teeth's flat surfaces. Dog molars are crafted so to allow dogs to grind foods like their kibble and crush bones. 
Mother dogs also rely on their molars to snip off the pups' umbilical cord.

You can buy this tool on ebay, Amazon and other selling platforms. 
To take a tartar from the tooth, use the tool with wider end and just scratch down the tartar in direction from the root to the top of the tooth. 
Of course you should do everything slowly. Let the dog smell the tool and prepare treats. Take one stroke of the tool on the tooth, give the treat to dog immediately and continue like this...and in about 15 minutes, the canine teeth will be clean.

When we started to show our dogs, we have been totally lost.
How? Where? When? What to do?
Everything was total SF and it was really hard to understand the system and the rules.
This is why we will not copy HKS regulations with its all articles and complete rules, because it would be too much for you to process all info and you will be also lost as we were.

We will try to explain how it works as simple as we can :) and we will write only some details which will make you understand better.
​
Later with time and more showing experience, you will become an expert and you will know everything about when to enter the ring, what to win and achieve, where to go and collect titles and what to do :).

Until then, just let us to guid you with all that you need in order to attend the dogshows.

If you want to know all dogshow details and regulations already now, you can find it on the following link:

web.hks.hr/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Pravilnik-o-Strucnom-radu-2022_sa-
From page 37 you can find everything about dogshow rules

SPECIALITY AND CLUBSHOWS
Speciealities and club shows are restricted to dogs of a specific breed or to varieties of only one breed - recognized by HKS.

THE ROLE OF THE JUDGE
The judges are experts on the breeds they are judging.
​Judges examine the dogs, then give awards according to how closely each dog compares to the judge’s mental image of the “perfect” dog described in the breed’s official standard.
 They examine (“go over”) each dog with their hands to see if the teeth, muscles, bones and coat texture conform to the breed’s standard.
They view each dog in profile for overall balance, and watch each dog gait (“move”) to see how all of those features fit together in action. 
​Judges award first through 4 places in each class and give titles to the best ones.

​Each dog presented to a judge is exhibited (“handled”) by its owner, breeder or a hired professional.
​The role of a handler is similar to that of a jockey who rides a horse around the track and, hopefully, into the winner’s circle.

When your dog will be at the age of 8 years, you will start to compete in Veteran class
 
VETERAN CLASS
The title of the veteran winner can only be awarded in the veteran class to the best dog that was rated "excellent" for both males and females.
The judge decides who will be the Best veteran between male and female.

VETERAN CHAMPION OF CROATIA - CHV HR
The title "Veteran Champion of Croatia (CHV HR)" will be awarded to the dog by HKS upon request of the owner who won:
- 3 x Veteran winner
- titles must be awarded by at least two different judges.

OTHER TITLES

BEST OF OPPOSITE SEX - BOS
International dogshow
CACIB (male or female), Junior winner (male or female), and the Veteran winner (male or female) of the opposite sex to that in who was awarded the title of BEST OF THE BREED.

National and special and club shows 
For this title compete all males or all females with titles won CAC HR, Junior winner male or female, and  Veteran winner male or a female of the opposite sex to the one in which the BEST OF BREED title was awarded.

BEST OF BREED - BOB
​
International dogshow
Competing for this title:
CACIB male, CACIB female and Junior winner male and female, Veteran winner male and female

National dogshow
All males and females that won CAC title + Junior winner male and female + Veteran winner male and female

People generally don't know much about dog shows or have any idea what they are for.

Although many people show dogs for fun, the real purpose of dog shows is 
to evaluate quality breeding stock in order to maintain the integrity of the breed.

So, showing dogs is essential for the development of any breed.
The purpose of dog shows is to obtain independent judgment from a number of qualified judges that a dog is a good representative of the breed, as measured by the written breed standard.
The main consideration is the dog's conformation or overall appearance, temperament and structure.
The judges are looking for characteristics that allow the dog to perform the function for which his or her breed was bred.
​Such dogs can later be used in breeding after passing breeding exam, x-ray and got genetically tested on hereditary diseases.. 
For this very reason, breeders participate in competitions to show off their best specimens and to see what direction other breeders are going with their breeding.
It's much easier today where the entire strong connected RR community follows all the dogs on social networks but it's much better to see dog in person than in photos, and there is no better place for that than a show ring. You see whole appereance, vibe and the most important you can feel dogs temperament and character what is very important in breeding!
To meet dogs and breeders is much more important than gaining the titles, although a quality dog will will have a large number of championships, titles and awards anyway.

Cooperating with a dog in the ring is a totally cool thing!
You are deepening the relationship with your dog, dog is learning to be focused and to follow you all the time. You work together and compete with excitement to perform at your best and this is so fun.
It is also good mental training for both of you. You both act like one.
Of course, you just cannot go to showring without previous training. You should prepare yourself for the show and learn how to show the dog, as well dog has to be trained well.
In the beginning, you will fight with yourself until you perfect your handling skills, but later the real competition begins where you will try to to make the best impression on the judge and win.
This is also great way of socialization for your dog! You will be surrounded with plenty of dogs and your dog will learn to act and be calm and focused on you and in all kind of enviroments and situations.

Thanks to the dogshows, we travel a lot and have seen and explored a large number of European countries such as Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, all of our beautiful Croatia, Austria, Hungary, Denmark, Switzerland, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, etc. and there are still so many countries we wanna visit and are already in our show scedules.
In the morning you show your dog and in the afternoon and evening you go around and explore beautiful places, eat fabolous food and feel the culture and people.
It just cannot be better!

There are plenty of hotels and apartments allowing pets so there is no problem with accomodation at all. In some hotels you even get treats and bowls for dogs :)

WHAT IF?
​​Your life may change in such a way that you can no longer keep the dog.
In this case, according to the contract you signed with us it’s essential  that you contact us.
Any reputable breeder will be willing to take the puppy back, even in his later years.
​If this happens to you, don’t be afraid to call for fear of being judged.
It is our first responsibility to the dog, and we will take the dog back and do everything they can to place him in a new home.

By staying in touch, you’re sharing information that’s very valuable to us.
We will be updated about any temperament, health, or other problems your puppy has, and this will help us in order to make future breeding decisions.
The breeder cares about breeding the healthiest dogs possible, and input from you is important for us.
With this information we can check to see if any other puppies in the litter are experiencing the same health issues and we can look at our breeding program and see if we can trace the issues back which can help determine if maybe the issue is genetic or environmental.

We always try to ask our puppy buyers to let us know about a possible health problem with the dog.
We work closely with a exerienced veterinarian who, in addition to having 2 ridgebacks, knows the breed extremely well and she is always there for us.

veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/
​
Through cooperation and consultation, we will make the best decision for you and your dog.

It happens more often in winter because ears are cold, but winter is not only cause for this injury.  
 It can also be playing with another dog or striking their ear tip on a hard object while shaking their head or the like but most of these injuries happen during the winter.

The ear tip is a vulnerable piece of skin that can be damaged easily and once damaged, bleeds readily (and sometimes profusely) and is slow to heal.

Treatment varies depending on if the skin has been torn, cut, punctured or if the tip has just generally eroded (sometimes called an ulcer).
If you notice a sore on the tip of the ear, you must immediately start treatment so that it does not get bigger, because every time the dog shakes its head, the scab will burst, the iho will bleed again and the wound will deepen and this can be neverending and can last for months with possible erosion of the top of the ear.
It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks, then several more months of daily vitamin E oil and lanolin, Melem cream, Elisabeth Arden -  8 hour cream or any other cream with similar texture to help support the new, healthy tissue.

When the ear has the wound even if it is protected with bandage, there is still danger that it will be hurt again if your dog shakes the head.
So it is good to get a "snood" for the head which will definitely slow down ears when shaking head and keep them protected.


WHAT DO YOU NEED FOR THIS BANDAGE?

Medical tape
Sterile gauze or cotton wool
Ointment which helps speed up and improve the process of reepithelialization and tissue renewal or just a natural honey.


veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/ 
​is producing Ointment speed renewal cream upon a request!




HOW TO DO IT
Clean the wound, apply small piece of sterile gauze or cotton wool over it.
Cut the medical tape to a length of approximately 5 cm.
Glue the tape starting on the inside ear, then fold it over the top of the ear (where the wound is located) and glue the rest of the tape to the outside of the ear. 

It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks.
After the wound is healed, continue to apply oil and  cream on the top of the ear for at least month to help and support new tissue of an ear.​

If somebody told us that we would have to buy coats for our dogs, and then for Ridgebacks....we would say: "Gimme a break!"
But the fact is, Ridgebacks do need a winter coat to protect them when the temperatures are really low.
Since they have no undercoat, they literally freeze, especially if they are not active outdoors.
So yes, it would be a good to buy a coat for your dogs to protect them from the cold.

Heat Stroke
One of the biggest summer dangers for dogs is the heat.
Tragically, every year dogs die from heat stroke after being left in cars.
Dogs can also suffer from heat stroke when exercising in hot weather, especially without access to sufficient drinking water.
​Dogs are very sensitive to heat because they cannot regulate their body temperature by sweating to cool down, in the way that humans do. Heat stroke is a life-threatening condition that causes great suffering and can cause serious damage to internal organs. 

Symptoms of Heat Stroke in Dogs
Early signs of heat stroke may be subtle, and it’s important to know what’s normal for your dog.
If gone untreated, heat stroke may lead to collapse or even death.

Signs to look out for include:
Becoming anxious, barking, whining or trembling
Faster and heavier panting than normal
Seeking shade or reluctance to move
Excessive drooling or increased thirst
Increased heart rate
Elevated rectal temperature
Deep red or purple gums that feel dry when touched
Vomitting and/or diarrhea
Mental dullness or glassy eyes
Weakness or wobbling
Difficulty breathing and collapse
Loss of consciousness
​
NEVER LET YOUR DOG IN THE CAR DURING HOT DAYS!
NEVER WALK YOUR DOG IN THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY!
DO NOT EXPOSE YOUR DOG TO ALL DAY SUN!

What can you do to help your dog?

If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, it’s important to act quickly!

Move your dog to a cool, quiet area
Offer fresh water to drink. Alternatively, a small syringe can be used to put drops of water on the dog’s tongue. Don’t force the dog to drink a large volume of water or force a syringe into its mouth.
Actively cool the dog by wetting her fur and paws, but don’t submerge her head in water.
Cold wet towels can be placed on the stomach, armpits, and paw pads. Refresh them frequently.

Mild heat stroke may not require further treatment, but you should always consult your veterinarian for advice.
If your dog is in distress or collapsed, he must be taken to the veterinary clinic right away.

Treatment of Heat Stroke in Dogs
In severe cases of heat stroke, rapid veterinary treatment is required - every minute counts!
Call the vet to alert them that you’re on the way.
On the way to the clinic, continue to cool your dog, if possible. Use a cold wet towel on her body and offer plenty of fresh cold water to drink.

Insect Bites and Stings
Bites or stings from insects such as wasps, ants, and mosquitoes rarely make dogs ill, but they can be itchy and sore.
Some dogs, however, are hypersensitive and may have allergic reactions to these insects. The more bites or stings a dog gets at one time, the greater the risk of a more severe reaction. S
igns of an acute anaphylactic reaction include:
swelling at the bite site, hives, difficulty breathing, pale gums, collapse, and potentially death. Itching, facial swelling, panting, vomiting, and diarrhea are further signs of an allergic reaction.
If you see these, please seek prompt veterinary advice.
.Pain associated with a sting can be reduced by holding a cold wet cloth, or ice cubes wrapped in a damp cloth, against the skin. Remove the stinger, if possible, and bathe the skin with cool water.
However, if your dog is stung by several wasps, a whole swam or near the mouth, seek vet advice immediately.
​Occasionally, your vet may need to give a corticosteroid injection, tablets, or a topical cream to reduce swelling and other signs.

Seawater
If dogs drink a large amount of saltwater they are likely to suffer from salt poisoning.
However, they may not show signs or only vomit once. In these instances, offer fresh water to drink, little and often. Do not allow them to drink large volumes in one go to avoid further vomiting. cSigns of more severe salt poisoning include continuous vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, stiffness, cramps, and coma. If your dog vomits multiple times, retches repeatedly or is salivating, seek veterinary advice, as your dog may require fluid therapy.

Sunburn
Just like humans, dogs can get a sunburn.
Dogs with thin-skin or very thin fur are most at risk.  Dogs, like humans, can be at increased risk of developing skin cancer if they get a sunburn. To prevent sunburn, it is best to ensure that dogs have plenty of access to cool, shady spots, and avoid long periods in the sun.

​Fish Hooks
​Dogs who go out with their owners on a fishing trip can sometimes get a fishing hook stuck in their mouth or skin. Fishing hooks often have a barb to prevent the fish detaching. If this is the case, do not try to remove the hook backward (the same way it went in) as you may cause more tissue damage. Instead, try to push the hook forwards through the skin, or use pliers to cut the hook to remove it safely. This is not always easy, especially if the dog is stressed and moving. In many cases, fishing hooks will need to be removed by a vet after a sedative has been given. These types of wounds typically heal very quickly and do not require sutures.

Snake bites
more about this topic you will find at our Blog - Dangers in spring :)

It can take up to one month for an old dog and new dog to really settle in and accept each other's position in the pack.
If you want a second dog, you need to be ready to commit to this process and not panic.


General tips
1
Set reasonable goals when you bring a new dog into your pack.
Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.

2
Proceed slowly and calmly.
Slow-paced introductions may help prevent any fear-based or aggressive reactions from developing. If bad behaviors are not reined in from the start, they can become habit and be very hard to change in the future.

3
Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged.
When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times.
The situation can change suddenly.

4
If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.

5
Stay in control of the introduction.
If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe.
Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.

Dog to Dog
Before you bring the new dog (or puppy) home, bring home his scent so your resident pets can be introduced to his smell first.Rub the new dog with a cloth or use a blanket he has slept on and bring it into your home and place it where he will be sleeping.

From time to time it is ok to give your dog to chew a bone. The teeth plaque will be cleaned, your dog will have fun and will be mentally stimulated but there is a danger in those tasty bones!

Chewing is a natural instinct for dogs.
Bones are a great way to keep happy a dog who is bored! 
Like beef femurs or marrow bones, "Recreation bones" are great for letting your dog activate their jaw but aren’t to be consumed. 
Chewing is a favourite pastime for most dogs and giving them a bone will help to keep them both physically and mentally occupied.
Usually, chewing bones keeps your pup out of trouble and ensures that they are chewing on something healthy instead of your shoes. 

Bones should only be given to dogs under supervision, and they should never be left alone with them!
​
Don’t give your dog the wrong kind of bone.
Ideal bones for dogs are round bones with bulges or lumps at either end, like leg bones. Many other types of bones are easier for dogs to break with their bite, and are more likely to cause problems..

​No chicken drumsticks to dogs, nor wishbones.

Don't feed your dog with pork bones or rib bones.
They're more likely to splinter than other types of bones.
Don't give your dog fish bones!

​Don’t give you dog cooked bones of any kind.
Cooked bones, including those that come from table scraps, are not safe for dogs to eat.
They can easily break and splinter.
Cooked bones are not recommended under any circumstance.

Don’t let your dog chew any kind of bone into small pieces.
Don’t give your dog chunks of bone that can cause blockages.

Don’t give your dog a bone if he has stomach problems.

Don’t give your dog a bone to chew on if there’s another dog around.

Never let a dog bury a bone, nor dig them up later on to eat!
Old or buried bones grow bacteria on them that can cause infection.

Offer raw meat bones.
One disadvantage about raw bones is that they can carry bacteria like salmonella or e-coli and can spoil in a few days if not eaten. Dogs' strong stomach acid helps break bones down, and kills potential bacteria but it is the best that you always freeze the bone, and then defreeze it to the room temperature before you give it to your dog!


Take the bone away from your dog after 10-to-15 minutes, and put it in the refrigerator. Dispose of a bone after few days.
Never let your dog to eat the bone to its end because there is a danger that the dog will swallow when it becomes small. 
Once the bone has been picked clean of all bits and yummy flavouring, then take the bone away and discard it. 

Give your Ridgie a large bone!

BE COOL AND CONFIDENT IN PROCEDURE!
Ridgebacks are experts in reading our body language and energy.
If your dog reads your inner panic or stress, be sure that the dog be also bee stressed!

When you trim your dog’s nails, hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle.
Clip each nail carefully so that you don’t accidentally cut into the quick, which is the live part of the nail. 

NEVER PUT THE WHOLE NAIL INTO CLIPPER!
​​CUT IT PIECE BY PIECE TILL YOU DO NOT GET CLOSE TO THE LIVE PART OF THE NAIL!

Otherwise your dog will fell the pain and then it is probably The END...
Finito! Good bye.....
Drama is ON forever probably if the dog starts to connect the pain with clippers!
​This means stopping before you reach the pink part if your dog has white nails.
For black nails, stop clipping when you no longer see a whitish interior.

What if you cut too much and the nail starts to bleeding?
Your dog moved at the last second, you couldn't see what you were doing, you sneezed at the wrong time—whatever the reason, there's no need to panic if you cut the nail too short.
​Simply press a pinch of styptic powder, corn starch or flour to the nail and apply pressure until it stops bleeding, and let the God help you that your dog does not get in drama!
You can also use the antibiotic powder TYROSUR which we recommend to have it at home for any need!

The perfect cutting range ends right before the blood supply.
Front paws are more likely to get overgrown nails and should cut more often that the rear paws!
You should always cut parallel to the bottom. 

WE RECOMMEND

Millers Forge Nail Clipper With Safety Stop

We looove the Millers....They are pretty silent and do not disturb our dogs, and they are easy to handle!
 The blades are sharp and cut smoothly and easily.
Even with lots of use, the stainless-steel blades always held up great, maintaining their sharpness for many years. Millers are comfortable to hold, quiet to use, and easy to maneuver around each nail thanks to the size and thinness of the blades.
​These nail clippers also have a quick-guard safety feature and safety lock for safe storage.

or

Nail grinders are great for dogs that don't love clippers as well as dogs with black nails since you can't see the quick.

THE MOST IMPORTANT IS TO TAKE THIS SERIOUSLY!
FIND OUT WHAT YOUR DOG LIKES MORE....NO MATTER IF IT IS THE GRINDER OR CLIPPERS, THE NAILS WILL HAVE TO BE SHORTEN EVERY MONTH.
MORE YOU WILL WORK ON THIS IN EARLY DAYS, THERE WILL BE LESS STRESS FOR ALL OF YOU!
YOU DO NOT DO DRAMA, JUST THE NAILS :)!

RING TRAINING
​
​Try to find a "Ring training" for you and the puppy.
Training classes are instructed by experienced dog handlers.
Classes like this are invaluable to a novice exhibitor because the instructors will teach you all the basics of how to present a dog in the ring.
​Your dog will also learn what’s expected from her when she competes at a dog show.

On "Ring training" you will learn:

Gait your dog around the ring

Stack the puppy for examination 
​
Perform the basic patterns
(​such as the triangle, the “L,” and the down and back)

​And yes! Your puppy will socialize with "ring" conditions because lot of dogs attend ring training as well the instructor will examinate your dog, will go into puppy's mouth etc....

Puppy owners usually learn the puppies to "sit down" to get a treat in early days!
We do not recommend this command if you plan to show your dog, because your puppy will sit in the ring! Teach the puppy command "stay" and 1 meal per day you can give your puppy from your hand :) with lot of motivation. Never end the practice if the puppy did wrong. This short trainings should be short (few minutes!)  and ended when puppy did everything well!

At these early days, choose smaller national shows!
There are less people and dogs around so it is easier for your puppy to adapt but for you as well!
I remeber how I was lost and stressed on my first shows :)
As you would get ready for any big event, both of you need preparation time too.

Dog shows can be quite long, especially if it’s your first time.
Bring along a few items with you to make your dog more comfortable in this new environment.

WHAT DO YOU NEED AT THE DOGSHOW?

Entry confirmation
Printed or in your mobile phone!

Food and water bowl 

Pet passport 
Needed for enterance!
You will be checked by the official vet.
Your dog has to be vaccinated on schedule!

Show leash
Using a leash the same colour of your dog’s coat will help in not disrupting the overall balance.

Number clip
(every dog is given a catalogue number – which it has to wear)

Blanket or crate
 Crate if the dog is used to stay in the crate - relaxing spot!

The tent you will probably buy later! It is like you have your own house on the show where dog is protected from the crowd and weather conditions and can relax.


​WHERE TO STAY ON A SHOW SITE?

If you did not get info about the judging schedule and ring layout on the showground and your catalogue number via email, go to show office to get your number and the catalogue so you may find your ring and schedule.
Find the place where the dog can sit, eat and relax.
Your dog can have its own relaxing spot and get protection from the sun, rain and even the crowd as it may get too noisy.
Never leave your dog alone!
Dogs used to peace and quiet may find this conflicting and stressful.
This can impact their performance during the show. You can combat this by getting your dog used to noise by taking him outdoors initially.
Find your peaceful place from which you may follow the judging in your ring.

PLEASE WATCH OUT. NOT EVERY DOG BEHAVES WELL AND NOT EVERY OWNER IS RESPOSNIBLE, SO BE CAREFUL THAT SOME DOG DO NOT ATTACK YOURS!

The most important of all is that your puppy feels comfortable at the dog show site and in the ring.

Do not force your puppy and do not show your puppy on every show.
Puppy has to be a puppy!
​
In baby, puppy and junior class playfulness and jumping are allowed so do not worry about if your puppy will be everywhere around you in the ring and if you do mistake as a handler :)

There is a plenty of time in front of you and you can wait with serious showing of your dog.
​
Try to make your puppy having fun in the ring, to start to love this kind of bonding with you and we are sure that with the time, you will have a
"Dogshow superstar!"

The ridge is most well-known feature of our loving breed.
That line of hair, running in reverse, really makes this breed stand out in a crowd.
It is a unique trait and it makes our dog so special. 
 Why do Rhodesian Ridgebacks have ridges?

By the 16th century, this breed was commonly known as the Hottentot dog and often found living with the Khoikhoi tribe in Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe.
It was a half-wild African dog with a ‘ridge’ as its most prominent feature.
The history of the breed and how Rhodesians their current look, find out on our website under
"History of the breed" 
For those now wondering where the Hottentot dog got its ridge, unfortunately, we have no idea.
It could, however, just be an act of Mother Nature, or perhaps a gift from God. After all, there is a legend, and one that says the ridge is “where God sews them up (Rhodesian Ridgebacks) when he’s done stuffing them.”

The ridge should also have two crowns or whorls which are directly opposite each other. Having only one or more than two is considered a serious breed fault.
A whorl, on a Rhodesian Ridgeback, should be a pattern of spirals or concentric circles in the fur.
It should be noted at this point that there is no reason why you should not have a Rhodesian Ridgeback with less than two whorls, or more than two whorls as a family pet.
​Unless you are showing them, the whorls are of little to no importance and do not affect the Rhodesian Ridgeback in anything other than appearance. 

How The Ridge Is Passed On?
In order for Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies to be born with a ridge, they need to have the ‘ridge gene’ passed down from their parents to them.
 Rhodesian Ridgebacks can possess one or two copies of this gene.
​Rhodesian Ridgebacks that carry two copies are known as homozygous, whilst those who carry the one are heterozygous.

Rhodesian Ridgebacks born with just one ‘ridge gene’ can but do not always pass this on.
This is not a problem if they are bred with a Rhodesian Ridgeback with two ‘ridge genes’ as one of those will definitely be passed on.
If both parents only have one ‘ridge gene’ there are several different outcomes.

These are:

1
Puppies who have two ‘ridge genes’ (one from each parent) and can definitely themselves pass the ridge on.

2
Puppies with a 50% chance of having a ridge, but only receiving one ‘ridge gene.’

3
Puppies with a 25% chance of having no ridge at all. These puppies have no ‘ridge gene’ and cannot produce puppies themselves with ridges.

Please note, Rhodesian Ridgebacks are born with their ridges so do not trust a breeder who say that they will grow later.

​Good puppy schools will be closely supervised by a professional trainer with expertise in early canine behaviour who will focus on encouraging and rewarding the right behaviours with praise, treats or games. They can identify appropriate play versus bullying or intimidation and ensure that these early experiences are positive for all of the puppies involved. Unfortunately, an instructor without this knowledge and experience can possibly do more harm than good.

Builds Communication and Trust
Puppy training helps you to establish a line of communication between you and your puppy because it gives you the tools to ask your puppy to perform the desired behavior and teach your puppy how to correctly respond.
Adding puppy training into your daily schedule affords you a bonding experience like no other.
​
During puppy training sessions your pup learns to look to you as their leader and begins to trust and respect your guidance. ​

Puppy school also helps to educate the guardians on how to set the puppy up with good manners from a young age.
Even seasoned dog owners can benefit from reminders of timely and useful puppy tips for toilet training, jumping up, walking nicely on lead, chewing, and teething issues etc. 
You will learn how to read your puppy’s body language and interactions with other dogs.
A qualified and experienced instructor will take the time to point out the differences between appropriate play, dominant play, bullying, and unacceptable play.
Remember that dogs communicate mainly through posturing, so understanding when your puppy is playing too rough or is feeling intimidated will be useful information for you throughout the dog’s life.

Puppy training provides you the skills to communicate with your puppy.

​They are particularly important when it comes to effectively giving your puppy a command in different environments and situations.
Knowing basic obedience commands, especially Come, in outdoor off-leash situations can protect your pup from confrontations with other dogs and wildlife.
​

​Here we are back to the feeding schedule :)

Why is the scedule so important?
Well, sticking to a schedule helps puppy to learn what to expect and can also help you anticipate his need to go potty.
Potty training can begin immediately when you bring your puppy home.  We already started with this at the kennel so you just have to continue to have great results :)

Consistency is the name of the game. 
​Taking puppy out right after mealtime and before and after naptime or play can help reduce the chance of accidents in the house.
If you have successfully brought the puppy to the place of urination or poo and when he does it outside, praise him very loudly (you have to feel stupid and funny when you do this, but it is a great stimulus for dogs).
They will quickly realize that this is the right place to perform urination!
But still don’t expect too much.
Although you will teach your puppy to defecate outside in an average of 2-3 weeks, the puppy is only able to consciously control his bladder and intestines after about 6 months, satisfy his instincts and empty himself in a controlled manner.
Even then, he/she fails to hold urine or feces for too long.
Pay attention to the puppy's  body language, after he/she wakes up you have to
TAKE THE PUPPY OUT IMMEDIATELY if he is looking restless, etc.
The better you observe the puppy, the better you can interpret the signs.

If puppy poops or pees in the house, don't scold the dog it is your fault!

Methods of hitting the newspaper on or pushing the muzzle in the urine are absolute and unfounded nonsense!

You will avoid this if you are focused and if you catch him quickly enough and take him outside, but still be careful to calmly take him/her to the emergency place so that you do not create stress for him.
However, if it’s too late, don’t dramatize too much, clean the space thoroughly and make sure there are no odors.
It is good to coat such a place with vinegar after cleaning, because otherwise the puppy will smell later and this will stimulate him to get wet again in this place.
With patience and empathy, you can teach your puppy to be clean and tidy within a reasonable time.

 Avoid socializing with other dogs in public places until puppy had all vaccinations.
At the time you took over your puppy, it has not been vaccinated yet for the 3rd time so is not protected.
There are many diseases which can kill your puppy if infected.

Once your puppy is vaccinated and veterinarian gives the green light, you can begin socializing him with other dogs as well. Socialization and training are essential in helping your puppy become a well-mannered dog.

In general, you should fully adapt to the puppy on the trip.

​With driver, there should always be another person to look after the puppy.
A puppy on the way to a new home may be in someone’s lap.
It is also important to provide enough space for the puppy.
You should also have, old towels or household towels, wet towels for dogs, etc. due to possible vomiting or urination of the puppy. Have it on mind that vomiting or urination can occur especially on long travel. Always have a leash with you while driving. If an accident or malfunction happens,
it often happens that dogs run around after an accident, to be injured or run away.
​
​Later after a period the acclimatization dog should learn to sit in the space provided in the vehicle.
Ideally, of course, in the trunk of a caravan or better yet, in a box/cage for dogs.
Otherwise, in the event of an accident, keep in mind that the car has a live cannonball, so it is necessary to tie the dog with dog belts or drive it in a cage.

Puppy food for frst weeks you will get from us, as well the collar and leash, but you have to prepare yourself for puppy arrival so you have to buy  water and food bowls, some other toys and treats.

It is advisable to be constantly with the puppy first few days and give the young four-legged friend a lot of love, attention and free time.
Call the puppy by name, cuddle and play with him/her, let the puppy eat treats from your hand.
You build trust this way and enable the puppy to feel comfortable in your company, and these are the foundations for future upbringing.
Puppies are curious, so encourage yours to explore his new home. Show him around the places and spaces where he’ll be able to spend his time. 

You should be very careful with stairs!
​Puppy should not climb the stairs or go downstairs it is very dangerous for puppy bones and joints. You should carry your puppy over the stairs as long as possible.
If you live on several floors, it is best to leave the puppy on the main "living room" floor during the day and lock the stairs up or down with a suitable "baby door" so the puppy couldn’t jump over them.
Also consider all the possible dangers to the puppy and the possible places falls, eg stairs and balcony railings etc
​

If you have low pieces of furniture with sharp edges, protect these edges so puppy cannot be injured while playing or running.

You should also consider to move away the rugs temporary from the rooms where puppy spends the most of time, until the puppy learn to poo and pee outside :)

All these things you should prepare before puppy arrival, so you may provide the puppy the calmest possible 1st day in a new home.
NEVER LET PUPPY OUT OF SIGHT WHEN PUPPY IS AWAKE!
​

...and one more important thing!

Please keep it on mind that it is very important to be careful with puppy exercise and activities! ​

At the age of around 9 weeks you will bring your puppy home. In upcoming period you will really have to be very careful during puppy's growth because their bones do not even touch yet.
In this period puppies are totally sweet but also very vulnerable.

​
Early Age Exercise

​It is very important not to have your puppy jar or stress their limbs until the bones have joined.
Activities that can damage your puppy’s limbs are:
climbing stairs, jumping down from heights greater than themselves, falling down stairs, jumping on sofa, jumping off sofa, running uphill and downhill and even rough play with a larger dog. If you have stairs at home, carry your puppy when going up or down the stairs as long as you can carry their weight.

When you do not restrict their exercise you risk a lot!
But when you are letting puppy jump up and down off the sofa or bed, take them for long walks/hikes, letting them run uphill or especially downhill  you are damaging their joints.
If you have tiles or slippery floors, have on mind that puppy is damaging joints if scrambles without traction!

Shared from Clinique Vetérinaire Vetolistic - Dr. Marie Eve Cresci
​
"When you finally welcome your 10 week old puppies, please keep this picture in mind. Their bones ain't even touching yet. They walk so beautifully with big, flexible legs and bench movements because their joints are made up entirely of cartilage, muscles, tendons and ligaments covered with skin. Nothing is well adjusted or has real grip yet.
 
When you make them run excessively or don't limit their exercise to prevent them from overdoing during that time, you're not giving them the chance to grow properly. Every big jump or bounce and excited run creates bone-breaking impacts.
In reasonable quantities, this is not problematic and normal wear and tear will do.
 
But when you let the puppy jump off the couch or bed, take him for long walks, you damage this joint in training. When you let the puppy move on slippery tiles, you damage the joint.
 
You only get once to make them grow up. A well built body is something that comes from excellent upbringing and good education. BOTH , not just one
 
Once you’re an adult, you’ll have the rest of your life to spend playing and engaging in high-impact exercises. So keep him calm while he is still young and give him the gift that can only be given once." 

This is a huge danger on Croatian coast and where else Pine trees grow and you should be alerted from the February till April when these caterpillars are becoming active and go out from their nests on the trees down to the ground.

They move on the ground in columns and are very dangerous for dogs because they have developed defense against predators. These are their hairs which in contact with the skin, cause strong local irritation, which is presumed not to be related to immune mechanisms, but to be a poisonous substance they contain.
In addition, their hair is also a strong allergen, so sensitive dogs (and humans!) can cause very strong allergic reactions and even an anaphylactic reaction.
The reaction can also be caused by a dead not just a live caterpillar.
The caterpillars are actually cute and represent a unique sight for our dog!
A little hairy animal walks on the floor and just lures dog to a little sniffing and pushing with his nose.

They also reportedly have a sweet smell that makes dogs try to eat it.
​However, on contact, there is a sudden swelling of the muzzle, the eyes are closed, the whole head of the dog begins to itch terribly, and sometimes the reaction is so strong that the dogs even vomit. The tongue may swell so much that it is no longer possible to close the muzzle in a few minutes, and necrosis of the tongue may occur and parts of the tongue may fall off.
In such cases, veterinary intervention is urgently needed because there is a risk of swelling of the pharynx and airway obstruction.

​In the spring when snakes come out of their holes and they are extremely active, you should keep an eye on your dogs.
Do not let them move freely on the rocks, forests and tall grass where these two deadly poisonous animals that live in our areas - Riđovka and Poskok - could be found.

​Dogs often, especially puppies like to bite and pick plants they come across either in the house or in their environment. Be careful not to bite or chew on parts of plants that are poisonous as this can be fatal for them! Try removing those plants or fencing until the puppy grows up! 

Common symptoms of plant poisoning 

• Pronounced salivation and drooling
• Irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes and lips
• Nausea
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Respiratory disorders
• Lethargy
• Uncoordinated movement
• Excitement - irritability
• Dehydration
• Loss of appetite
• Different forms of epi attacks
• Loss of consciousness and coma

Unfortunately, lot of people are not educated enough and have no idea what the pedigree is.
Pedigree is not a "piece of paper" needed for attending dog shows, pedigree is much, much more and people who plan to buy a puppy should really buy a puppy with a pedigree.

​The pedigree can be obtained by any dog ​​bred in the Republic of Croatia that is registered in the Croatian Pedigree Book.
The pedigree must be marked by the International (FCI - Federation Cynologique Internationale) and Croatian Kennel Club (HKS - Croatian Kennel Club) and has to contain data for the registration of the dog and three even four generations of ancestors.
In Croatia it is valid only when certified by the seal of the HKS, the signature of the head of the pedigree book of the HKS and when it has one of the types of marking the dog - microchip number.

When you have all of these, you can be sure you have pure breed dog!

But still, choose your breeder carefully - just because you're buying a pedigree dog, it doesn't mean also that the person you're buying from is a responsible breeder.

Responsible breeders do genetic testing of their dogs, x-ray rated by the Veterinary University and breed only with healthy and stabile dogs from the healthy bloodlines which have passed breeding exams and are pure representatives of the breed.

When buying a puppy, ask your breeder to show you all health test documents and champion certificates!!!

On the breeding exam, only those individuals that meet the breed standards (anatomy and the character) can obtain a breeding permit. For breeding exam dogs have to be over one year of age, and if they meet all the conditions prescribed by the above regulations, they receive a breeding permit and can be used for breeding. There are lot of regulations which breeders have to fulfill and this is why having a "pedigree dog" is so important.

After the puppies have been officially checked by the "Head of breeding" (HKS), the litter must be registered no earlier than six and no later than twelve weeks.
The pedigree is sent or given to the new owner within that period.
So don't fall for stories like "I didn't write them yet, but if you will ever need a pedigree, you can ask the Kennel club to gain it."
After the period of twelve weeks you will not be able to acquire it!

Kennels registered only at the Ministry of Agriculture is
NO GO!

Ministry of Agriculture legitimizes the activity of breeding pets intended for sale without a pedigree. Namely, according to the new Animal Protection Act (Narodne novine 102/17 and 32/19), it can also be "the owner of three or more females of animals of the same species" who do not have to have a pedigree or passed a breeding examination.

The law in this case allows "backyard breeding!"

Backyard breeding is the practice of mating dogs with very little planning, preparation, and care for the future progenies and this breeding is only for PROFIT!
 
Backyard breeders are often considered unethical dog breeders with profit-obsessed motivations.
They may let dogs reproduce freely without knowledge of their family histories (health and behavioral). They pay little or no attention to genetic health issues in both the parents and the puppies. They often charge less money for the puppies than a responsible breeder, but still more money than they should
(no one should pay for puppies that were bred carelessly). 

 And indeed this law, only seemingly "regulates" the breeding of pets intended for sale in Article 54. 

Breeders registrated only at the Ministry of Agriculture are not under control, their dogs are not genetically checked, x-rayed, they do not know anything about bloodlines, hereditary diseases, they are not attending breeding exams, etc. They probably do not have proper conditions for having puppies, their bitches are usualy birth machines. They just mate and sell dogs and this is very dangerous.
It is dangerous for the breed and also for the future owners.

Price should never be the tipping point when buying a puppy.
Responsible breeders have higher prices. If you see advertisement with a pretty low price, think twice!

If so, you are bound to turn a blind eye for a lower price tag, often completely unconsciously. This is what backyard breeders rely on to thrive: people accepting the unacceptable.

These dogs may seem less expensive, but in the long ​run, you may end up paying more for these dogs when health issues develop. In many cases, these dogs suffer because of health issues and these breeders will not take their puppies back if something goes wrong.