From time to time it is ok to give your dog to chew a bone. The teeth plaque will be cleaned, your dog will have fun and will be mentally stimulated but there is a danger in those tasty bones!

Chewing is a natural instinct for dogs.
Bones are a great way to keep happy a dog who is bored! 
Like beef femurs or marrow bones, "Recreation bones" are great for letting your dog activate their jaw but aren’t to be consumed. 
Chewing is a favourite pastime for most dogs and giving them a bone will help to keep them both physically and mentally occupied.
Usually, chewing bones keeps your pup out of trouble and ensures that they are chewing on something healthy instead of your shoes. 

Bones should only be given to dogs under supervision, and they should never be left alone with them!
​
Don’t give your dog the wrong kind of bone.
Ideal bones for dogs are round bones with bulges or lumps at either end, like leg bones. Many other types of bones are easier for dogs to break with their bite, and are more likely to cause problems..

​No chicken drumsticks to dogs, nor wishbones.

Don't feed your dog with pork bones or rib bones.
They're more likely to splinter than other types of bones.
Don't give your dog fish bones!

​Don’t give you dog cooked bones of any kind.
Cooked bones, including those that come from table scraps, are not safe for dogs to eat.
They can easily break and splinter.
Cooked bones are not recommended under any circumstance.

Don’t let your dog chew any kind of bone into small pieces.
Don’t give your dog chunks of bone that can cause blockages.

Don’t give your dog a bone if he has stomach problems.

Don’t give your dog a bone to chew on if there’s another dog around.

Never let a dog bury a bone, nor dig them up later on to eat!
Old or buried bones grow bacteria on them that can cause infection.

Offer raw meat bones.
One disadvantage about raw bones is that they can carry bacteria like salmonella or e-coli and can spoil in a few days if not eaten. Dogs' strong stomach acid helps break bones down, and kills potential bacteria but it is the best that you always freeze the bone, and then defreeze it to the room temperature before you give it to your dog!


Take the bone away from your dog after 10-to-15 minutes, and put it in the refrigerator. Dispose of a bone after few days.
Never let your dog to eat the bone to its end because there is a danger that the dog will swallow when it becomes small. 
Once the bone has been picked clean of all bits and yummy flavouring, then take the bone away and discard it. 

Give your Ridgie a large bone!

BE COOL AND CONFIDENT IN PROCEDURE!
Ridgebacks are experts in reading our body language and energy.
If your dog reads your inner panic or stress, be sure that the dog be also bee stressed!

When you trim your dog’s nails, hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle.
Clip each nail carefully so that you don’t accidentally cut into the quick, which is the live part of the nail. 

NEVER PUT THE WHOLE NAIL INTO CLIPPER!
​​CUT IT PIECE BY PIECE TILL YOU DO NOT GET CLOSE TO THE LIVE PART OF THE NAIL!

Otherwise your dog will fell the pain and then it is probably The END...
Finito! Good bye.....
Drama is ON forever probably if the dog starts to connect the pain with clippers!
​This means stopping before you reach the pink part if your dog has white nails.
For black nails, stop clipping when you no longer see a whitish interior.

What if you cut too much and the nail starts to bleeding?
Your dog moved at the last second, you couldn't see what you were doing, you sneezed at the wrong time—whatever the reason, there's no need to panic if you cut the nail too short.
​Simply press a pinch of styptic powder, corn starch or flour to the nail and apply pressure until it stops bleeding, and let the God help you that your dog does not get in drama!
You can also use the antibiotic powder TYROSUR which we recommend to have it at home for any need!

The perfect cutting range ends right before the blood supply.
Front paws are more likely to get overgrown nails and should cut more often that the rear paws!
You should always cut parallel to the bottom. 

WE RECOMMEND

Millers Forge Nail Clipper With Safety Stop

We looove the Millers....They are pretty silent and do not disturb our dogs, and they are easy to handle!
 The blades are sharp and cut smoothly and easily.
Even with lots of use, the stainless-steel blades always held up great, maintaining their sharpness for many years. Millers are comfortable to hold, quiet to use, and easy to maneuver around each nail thanks to the size and thinness of the blades.
​These nail clippers also have a quick-guard safety feature and safety lock for safe storage.

or

Nail grinders are great for dogs that don't love clippers as well as dogs with black nails since you can't see the quick.

THE MOST IMPORTANT IS TO TAKE THIS SERIOUSLY!
FIND OUT WHAT YOUR DOG LIKES MORE....NO MATTER IF IT IS THE GRINDER OR CLIPPERS, THE NAILS WILL HAVE TO BE SHORTEN EVERY MONTH.
MORE YOU WILL WORK ON THIS IN EARLY DAYS, THERE WILL BE LESS STRESS FOR ALL OF YOU!
YOU DO NOT DO DRAMA, JUST THE NAILS :)!

RING TRAINING
​
​Try to find a "Ring training" for you and the puppy.
Training classes are instructed by experienced dog handlers.
Classes like this are invaluable to a novice exhibitor because the instructors will teach you all the basics of how to present a dog in the ring.
​Your dog will also learn what’s expected from her when she competes at a dog show.

On "Ring training" you will learn:

Gait your dog around the ring

Stack the puppy for examination 
​
Perform the basic patterns
(​such as the triangle, the “L,” and the down and back)

​And yes! Your puppy will socialize with "ring" conditions because lot of dogs attend ring training as well the instructor will examinate your dog, will go into puppy's mouth etc....

Puppy owners usually learn the puppies to "sit down" to get a treat in early days!
We do not recommend this command if you plan to show your dog, because your puppy will sit in the ring! Teach the puppy command "stay" and 1 meal per day you can give your puppy from your hand :) with lot of motivation. Never end the practice if the puppy did wrong. This short trainings should be short (few minutes!)  and ended when puppy did everything well!

At these early days, choose smaller national shows!
There are less people and dogs around so it is easier for your puppy to adapt but for you as well!
I remeber how I was lost and stressed on my first shows :)
As you would get ready for any big event, both of you need preparation time too.

Dog shows can be quite long, especially if it’s your first time.
Bring along a few items with you to make your dog more comfortable in this new environment.

WHAT DO YOU NEED AT THE DOGSHOW?

Entry confirmation
Printed or in your mobile phone!

Food and water bowl 

Pet passport 
Needed for enterance!
You will be checked by the official vet.
Your dog has to be vaccinated on schedule!

Show leash
Using a leash the same colour of your dog’s coat will help in not disrupting the overall balance.

Number clip
(every dog is given a catalogue number – which it has to wear)

Blanket or crate
 Crate if the dog is used to stay in the crate - relaxing spot!

The tent you will probably buy later! It is like you have your own house on the show where dog is protected from the crowd and weather conditions and can relax.


​WHERE TO STAY ON A SHOW SITE?

If you did not get info about the judging schedule and ring layout on the showground and your catalogue number via email, go to show office to get your number and the catalogue so you may find your ring and schedule.
Find the place where the dog can sit, eat and relax.
Your dog can have its own relaxing spot and get protection from the sun, rain and even the crowd as it may get too noisy.
Never leave your dog alone!
Dogs used to peace and quiet may find this conflicting and stressful.
This can impact their performance during the show. You can combat this by getting your dog used to noise by taking him outdoors initially.
Find your peaceful place from which you may follow the judging in your ring.

PLEASE WATCH OUT. NOT EVERY DOG BEHAVES WELL AND NOT EVERY OWNER IS RESPOSNIBLE, SO BE CAREFUL THAT SOME DOG DO NOT ATTACK YOURS!

The most important of all is that your puppy feels comfortable at the dog show site and in the ring.

Do not force your puppy and do not show your puppy on every show.
Puppy has to be a puppy!
​
In baby, puppy and junior class playfulness and jumping are allowed so do not worry about if your puppy will be everywhere around you in the ring and if you do mistake as a handler :)

There is a plenty of time in front of you and you can wait with serious showing of your dog.
​
Try to make your puppy having fun in the ring, to start to love this kind of bonding with you and we are sure that with the time, you will have a
"Dogshow superstar!"

The ridge is most well-known feature of our loving breed.
That line of hair, running in reverse, really makes this breed stand out in a crowd.
It is a unique trait and it makes our dog so special. 
 Why do Rhodesian Ridgebacks have ridges?

By the 16th century, this breed was commonly known as the Hottentot dog and often found living with the Khoikhoi tribe in Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe.
It was a half-wild African dog with a ‘ridge’ as its most prominent feature.
The history of the breed and how Rhodesians their current look, find out on our website under
"History of the breed" 
For those now wondering where the Hottentot dog got its ridge, unfortunately, we have no idea.
It could, however, just be an act of Mother Nature, or perhaps a gift from God. After all, there is a legend, and one that says the ridge is “where God sews them up (Rhodesian Ridgebacks) when he’s done stuffing them.”

The ridge should also have two crowns or whorls which are directly opposite each other. Having only one or more than two is considered a serious breed fault.
A whorl, on a Rhodesian Ridgeback, should be a pattern of spirals or concentric circles in the fur.
It should be noted at this point that there is no reason why you should not have a Rhodesian Ridgeback with less than two whorls, or more than two whorls as a family pet.
​Unless you are showing them, the whorls are of little to no importance and do not affect the Rhodesian Ridgeback in anything other than appearance. 

How The Ridge Is Passed On?
In order for Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies to be born with a ridge, they need to have the ‘ridge gene’ passed down from their parents to them.
 Rhodesian Ridgebacks can possess one or two copies of this gene.
​Rhodesian Ridgebacks that carry two copies are known as homozygous, whilst those who carry the one are heterozygous.

Rhodesian Ridgebacks born with just one ‘ridge gene’ can but do not always pass this on.
This is not a problem if they are bred with a Rhodesian Ridgeback with two ‘ridge genes’ as one of those will definitely be passed on.
If both parents only have one ‘ridge gene’ there are several different outcomes.

These are:

1
Puppies who have two ‘ridge genes’ (one from each parent) and can definitely themselves pass the ridge on.

2
Puppies with a 50% chance of having a ridge, but only receiving one ‘ridge gene.’

3
Puppies with a 25% chance of having no ridge at all. These puppies have no ‘ridge gene’ and cannot produce puppies themselves with ridges.

Please note, Rhodesian Ridgebacks are born with their ridges so do not trust a breeder who say that they will grow later.

​Good puppy schools will be closely supervised by a professional trainer with expertise in early canine behaviour who will focus on encouraging and rewarding the right behaviours with praise, treats or games. They can identify appropriate play versus bullying or intimidation and ensure that these early experiences are positive for all of the puppies involved. Unfortunately, an instructor without this knowledge and experience can possibly do more harm than good.

Builds Communication and Trust
Puppy training helps you to establish a line of communication between you and your puppy because it gives you the tools to ask your puppy to perform the desired behavior and teach your puppy how to correctly respond.
Adding puppy training into your daily schedule affords you a bonding experience like no other.
​
During puppy training sessions your pup learns to look to you as their leader and begins to trust and respect your guidance. ​

Puppy school also helps to educate the guardians on how to set the puppy up with good manners from a young age.
Even seasoned dog owners can benefit from reminders of timely and useful puppy tips for toilet training, jumping up, walking nicely on lead, chewing, and teething issues etc. 
You will learn how to read your puppy’s body language and interactions with other dogs.
A qualified and experienced instructor will take the time to point out the differences between appropriate play, dominant play, bullying, and unacceptable play.
Remember that dogs communicate mainly through posturing, so understanding when your puppy is playing too rough or is feeling intimidated will be useful information for you throughout the dog’s life.

Puppy training provides you the skills to communicate with your puppy.

​They are particularly important when it comes to effectively giving your puppy a command in different environments and situations.
Knowing basic obedience commands, especially Come, in outdoor off-leash situations can protect your pup from confrontations with other dogs and wildlife.
​

​Here we are back to the feeding schedule :)

Why is the scedule so important?
Well, sticking to a schedule helps puppy to learn what to expect and can also help you anticipate his need to go potty.
Potty training can begin immediately when you bring your puppy home.  We already started with this at the kennel so you just have to continue to have great results :)

Consistency is the name of the game. 
​Taking puppy out right after mealtime and before and after naptime or play can help reduce the chance of accidents in the house.
If you have successfully brought the puppy to the place of urination or poo and when he does it outside, praise him very loudly (you have to feel stupid and funny when you do this, but it is a great stimulus for dogs).
They will quickly realize that this is the right place to perform urination!
But still don’t expect too much.
Although you will teach your puppy to defecate outside in an average of 2-3 weeks, the puppy is only able to consciously control his bladder and intestines after about 6 months, satisfy his instincts and empty himself in a controlled manner.
Even then, he/she fails to hold urine or feces for too long.
Pay attention to the puppy's  body language, after he/she wakes up you have to
TAKE THE PUPPY OUT IMMEDIATELY if he is looking restless, etc.
The better you observe the puppy, the better you can interpret the signs.

If puppy poops or pees in the house, don't scold the dog it is your fault!

Methods of hitting the newspaper on or pushing the muzzle in the urine are absolute and unfounded nonsense!

You will avoid this if you are focused and if you catch him quickly enough and take him outside, but still be careful to calmly take him/her to the emergency place so that you do not create stress for him.
However, if it’s too late, don’t dramatize too much, clean the space thoroughly and make sure there are no odors.
It is good to coat such a place with vinegar after cleaning, because otherwise the puppy will smell later and this will stimulate him to get wet again in this place.
With patience and empathy, you can teach your puppy to be clean and tidy within a reasonable time.

 Avoid socializing with other dogs in public places until puppy had all vaccinations.
At the time you took over your puppy, it has not been vaccinated yet for the 3rd time so is not protected.
There are many diseases which can kill your puppy if infected.

Once your puppy is vaccinated and veterinarian gives the green light, you can begin socializing him with other dogs as well. Socialization and training are essential in helping your puppy become a well-mannered dog.

In general, you should fully adapt to the puppy on the trip.

​With driver, there should always be another person to look after the puppy.
A puppy on the way to a new home may be in someone’s lap.
It is also important to provide enough space for the puppy.
You should also have, old towels or household towels, wet towels for dogs, etc. due to possible vomiting or urination of the puppy. Have it on mind that vomiting or urination can occur especially on long travel. Always have a leash with you while driving. If an accident or malfunction happens,
it often happens that dogs run around after an accident, to be injured or run away.
​
​Later after a period the acclimatization dog should learn to sit in the space provided in the vehicle.
Ideally, of course, in the trunk of a caravan or better yet, in a box/cage for dogs.
Otherwise, in the event of an accident, keep in mind that the car has a live cannonball, so it is necessary to tie the dog with dog belts or drive it in a cage.

Puppy food for frst weeks you will get from us, as well the collar and leash, but you have to prepare yourself for puppy arrival so you have to buy  water and food bowls, some other toys and treats.

It is advisable to be constantly with the puppy first few days and give the young four-legged friend a lot of love, attention and free time.
Call the puppy by name, cuddle and play with him/her, let the puppy eat treats from your hand.
You build trust this way and enable the puppy to feel comfortable in your company, and these are the foundations for future upbringing.
Puppies are curious, so encourage yours to explore his new home. Show him around the places and spaces where he’ll be able to spend his time. 

You should be very careful with stairs!
​Puppy should not climb the stairs or go downstairs it is very dangerous for puppy bones and joints. You should carry your puppy over the stairs as long as possible.
If you live on several floors, it is best to leave the puppy on the main "living room" floor during the day and lock the stairs up or down with a suitable "baby door" so the puppy couldn’t jump over them.
Also consider all the possible dangers to the puppy and the possible places falls, eg stairs and balcony railings etc
​

If you have low pieces of furniture with sharp edges, protect these edges so puppy cannot be injured while playing or running.

You should also consider to move away the rugs temporary from the rooms where puppy spends the most of time, until the puppy learn to poo and pee outside :)

All these things you should prepare before puppy arrival, so you may provide the puppy the calmest possible 1st day in a new home.
NEVER LET PUPPY OUT OF SIGHT WHEN PUPPY IS AWAKE!
​

...and one more important thing!