 We will assume that you before you start to communicate with the breeder have studied the breed well, done exhaustive research, met some Ridgebacks and their owners and asked them everything what interest you and that you know approximately what awaits you in your future life with your Ridgeback. Once you have prepared yourself and are ready for the challenges of this wonderful breed, you can start thinking about whether you want a female or a male. We are experienced breeders and we will suggest you is it for you better choice a male or female for you depending on a puppy temperament as well.
  Ridgebacks are powerful strong athlete dogs. When we speak of the differences that may really exist between male and female Ridgebacks, it must be understood that these are all generalities, excatly like with human. While a male or female may be more likely to possess a certain characteristic or behavioral trait, this does not mean these generalities apply on every dog. This is why its so important to evaluate puppies dispositons accurately and carefully. We evaluate every puppy and make a record of individual personalities through observation and later with Volhard's aptitude test to confirm what we already know. Based on that we make a decision what puppy will best fit a particular lifestyle. The personality differences that may between individual dogs have a much wider margin than that which might exist between the sexes.   Already in puppy age the power is present. Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies are like small machines ARE THEY FROM A SAME PLANET, OR LIKE HUMAN FROM VENUS AND MARS? Males can be more dominant, territorial, and easily distracted than female dogs. They are bigger and stronger and more muscular than females. But, also tend to be more demanding of attention, affectionate and focused on human beings than female dogs. Females are generally are more independent and inconsistent in their focus on their human companions, but not in every case. Females can be every bit as loving but after gaining their owners affections awhile, they may prefer to go off on their own. They have thein own business to do. This doesn’t mean that females aren’t affectionate, but they seem to be more “choosey” with their moments of cuddles and kisses and might be more reserved, similar how the cats act.  Just imagine how it is in the nature. Females are the ones that go to hunt and bring the food, and males are just resting, going around and protect the pack when they have to. This tells a lot about male and female attitudes. Males are "simple", comparing to females which are bit complicated especially when they are in the heat. This occurs twice a year for two to three weeks when the dominance and territorial behaviour can also be seen in females. Because of the heat you will have periods when you will have to be careful when walking your bitch. It is better to walk her in areas where there are not many dogs. Males are going to smell the bitch and they will try to hop on your girl, especially when the heat is in its zenith. Any unneutered male dog will be boisterous and persistent, at best, and accidental mating is always a possibility. Nothing can stop hungry or the horny one. These are two main instincts of animals. It is all about to eat and mate. And yes..."the heat" periods are much more hard for male owners. If you have a bitch, you just go away from other dogs and are a bit more careful, but male owners will have males that sing, do not eat and are pretty crazy if they smell the lady with perfume somewhere around. If your male dog is not neutered, you need to make sure he has an area to exercise in that he can’t escape from – especially if there are female dogs on heat nearby. Bitches also have often false pregnancies after heats and this is why we wrote that you will have hormon storms from time to time. Males leave more urin marks around, when they walk than females, but in the heat, bitch is marking with urine much more. She is leaving the invitation cards everywhere so the pretty guys may find her easier. It is her instinct, she wants to be mated.  When it comes to trainability, there are mixed opinions. Some say that females are easier to train because they mature earlier, are smarter, and don’t get as easily distracted as males. On the other hand, males desire to please their owners significantly more than females, which sets them up to learn and obey commands more willingly especially when they know they will get a treat. They are more dependent on their owners, will require more guidance, direction, and are more attentive to their owners in general life. An example of this difference could be a female’s ability to remain completely focused on herself and what she’s doing throughout the day. In contrast, a male will typically be right by your side, perhaps even following you around, wanting to know what you are doing. Males are "attention whores" :) They have a tendency to remain like goofy, playful kids their whole lives. On dogshows, males dominate more because they are more attractive. They show off more, they cooperate better with handlers, they are easier to be stacked, and mostly they win over females for the BOB titles (Best of breed) title because they are more attractive.
Ridgebacks play hard. People sometimes think it is a fight Male Ridgebacks are easier to raise for first time owners. The females can be more challenging because they are more aware of pack “hierarchy” and in many cases are a little smarter; meaning, they can problem-solve without much input from their owners as well they will do things without much input from their owners ;) Male dogs don’t have much parental instinct, and so they tend to view children as potential playmates rather than strangely shaped puppies! This can make things a little boisterous at times, and it’s important that young children don’t become intimidated, giving the dog the idea that’s it’s a rung or two above them on the pack ladder. This varies a lot from breed to breed, however, and some male dogs can be every bit as loving and protective of children as a maternal she-dog. Both male and female ridgebacks make excellent watchdogs and have a protective nature that will make any family feel safe. .  Males in puberty could become a bit arrogant but this is just a period and if you train them and lead them properly and correct the behaviour, the arrogance will fade away. With bitches it is a bit different. While maturing they become more arrogant in some way and they are more resentful and vindictive. When two males fight, they fight for the state....ego is pumping with lot of noise around. Evidence suggests that male dogs are more likely to posture, threaten and challenge as part of social ordering behavior. However, this is often a show that doesn’t result in an attack. Fights between two male dogs are often ritualistic and cause little harm. And yes, males can easily forget that there was a fight comparing to females which will save the file. Females have a stronger tendency to enforce their dominance in the social hierarchy. They want to finish the job - they want to get rid of their opponent. In the fight they are much more hard than males and female fights are typically more damaging.  Although personalities can vary, it’s nearly always the males that grow to be bigger, stronger, and more powerful and are significantly larger than females.. This is certainly an important factor to consider when choosing which sex will be appropriate for you and your family. The average range for MALE ridgebacks: Height: (65-69 cm) Weight: (40-47 kg) The average range for FEMALE ridgebacks: Height: (60-66 cm) Weight: (31-39 kg) Males will usually continue to pack on muscle until around 2,5 years old, with most females stopping by around 18 months.  So both male and female have pros and cons. These pros and cons are not general because every dog is an individual, has own perosnality and spirit, and on the end the most important thing is to purchase the dog from responsible breeder. Responsible breeder will never combine & mate agressive or unstable, unsecure dogs, so this character will not end up in progeny and in your home!So ih you have a stabile dog, it will be easy to juggle with these differencies no matter you will end with male or female on your sofa! Lot of details we see already in puppy age, and we always suggest owners which puppy is best for them depending on an experience and their lifestlye. For us the most important is the "perfect match" with the owner no matter if is it male or female Ridgeback.
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GRAND AX NEOMELE   
 With more than 8160 followers on Instagram, Grand Ax has proven to be a very influential RR on social media. He is a son of famous vice world winner VWW Kennebec's Final Answer - Titicaca and our Bella Neomele, and has lot of qualities. Unfortunately he was not interested in dogshows. He had his own vision of how he will leave his mark :) 
His owner Ema, with a sparkle in her eyes and an incredible amount of love, talks about him: "Our Ax filled a great void after the loss of our first ridgeback and brought great joy to the family . We took the importance of training very seriously at an early age and he took to it very well and was like a real little sponge and absorbed every new command and movement, just like he does today." 
Ema continued to work with Ax and socialized him so that Ax became a companion and partner, best friend and family member who always goes everywhere with her. He plays with other dogs, sits in a restaurant, in caffee bar and it doesn't matter at all where Ema goes because Ax is so stable and nice with everybody that he is welcome wherever they go. 
 "He loooves to play with his sister Gala, and even they are adults, they still fight for the toy like they are still puppies. This is usualy the biggest attraction in the park :) But, at home his favourite place is a "sofa"....actually he is a sofa :), because he constantly sleeps on my shoulder like a parrot :)" - Ema explained and thank God we see that on the photos. :)  
Sleeping all day long is his favourite hobby except there there is some nice smell coming out of the kitchen. Then he instantly switches to monitoring mode and works closely with the chef and hopes that the chef will mess up at least a few times and that pieces of food will fall to the floor so that he can eat them. In such moments it seems he uses the power of telekinesis when he literally moves the food with his eyes and food end in his mouth.
 "The amount of happiness when he welcomes you at the door simply cannot be described, it doesn't matter if you were at work all day or you just went to throw out the trash, the joy is the same! When we take him with for a weekend trip, the rest of the family can't wait for him to come back because it is empty without him - he is greeted with cookies and hugs, the rest of us are not so important!" - Ema says. 
  Ax is a lifght of her life and she cannot even imagine how it would be without him. There is so much love and positive energy he gives, and no one can bring in so much happines in Ema's life. Everything can be changed except that the Ax is a favourite "sofa" of all. The home without a dog is just a house. 
So even if Ax is a serious instagrammer and even he has so many followers, we think he should leave his mark also in the ring...He is in the best age now. Powerful, matured and absolutely gorgeous male, so we hope that Ema will give us a hand and that we will go to some dogshow together, because this beautiful boy has to present himself to the wider audience!!!!! <3 FOLLOW AX ON INSTAGRAM!
Apart from the fact that they are short coated larger dogs with a cool feature running down their back (note: approximately 5% of RRs are ridgeless), how much do you really know about the breed? Please take your time and LEARN about the breed (beyond its physical attributes) BEFORE you decide you want an RR.  Did you know that RRs were bred to work (in a pack) independently of man? Working independently of man has resulted in a breed that is an independent thinker that is programmed to achieve its goals, not yours. Do you know why you should care about this trivia? You should care because it affects how you train your dog and should mitigate your expectations and understanding about the breed. If you put dog breed personality on a circular scale, if you think of where you would put breeds like Golden Retrievers or German Shepherd dogs (or any other breed that was designed to work closely with man), find the point on the opposite side of the scale (diametrically opposed) and that it where the RR would be found. When you are working with/training RRs there has to be something “in it” for them or they will simply shut down ... this is one of the reasons that punishment /negative training does not work well for this breed.
RRs are master manipulators (it goes back to the concept of them pleasing themselves), be it about food (more on that below), getting on the furniture, getting their toenails done (oh the drama) or simply walking nicely on lead. Put the time in and work with your dog .... there is no shortcut with this breed. This is NOT a breed that you bring home and forget ... they are NOT a short haired Golden retriever that you can bring home, do very little and still end up with a nice social family pet. This breed requires LIFELONG work and socialization. Ignore your RR at your own peril as you may come home one day to a house that is destroyed or (even worse), a dog that has become fearful and phobic of things it does not know - this includes having their toenails done!!!!!!!  Sadly in ~ 25 years of ridgeback rescue, I have seen too many ridgebacks that were inadequately trained and socialized that became fear biters. Here is the deal with fear biters, once a RR has figured out that it can stop whatever it doesnt like or make the person/animal that it doesnt like go away by putting its mouth on someone or something, it WILL do it again. Trust me when I tell you that there are few things scarier than a fear aggressive ridgeback wanting to stop something it doesnt like ... remember my comment about the breed wanting to please itself, not you.  RRs are a very physical breed and are nasty little vampires as baby puppies that will bite any and everything that comes close to their mouths ... while most puppies (any breed) will do some biting, RR puppies are biters on steroids. This is the #1 complaint of all new puppy owners. They WILL bite you and your children ... they will also body slam you and your family - especially young children who run and scream around the puppy. This is why many RR experienced owners and breeders will caution against getting a puppy when you have toddlers and younger children in the home. With time and consistent training, this too will pass ..... BUT .... you have to live through /survive the first few months of a RR puppy life.   RRs (most) are prey driven hounds. Apart from being an interesting fact, do you know why you should care? First ... while there are going to be people who tell you that they have dogs in an unfenced backyard or use e-fencing and that they take their dogs on wonderful off leash walks, the reality is that they are the exception, not the rule. The vast majority of RRs will not respect an unfenced yard and/or an e-fence and will chase any and everything that runs. The thrill of the chase applies equally to off leash walks - most RRs should NOT be trusted off leash in an area that is not completely secure. This is also not a breed that should be walked by children .... while I occasionally see pictures of children on the end of a leash of a RR, the breed is too strong and the prey drive is too high in most dogs to make this safe ... I dont care how well leash trained your dog is.  Food ... the master manipulator can go one of two ways: you have have a “I am starving” RR that will eat until it explodes or the I dont want that food, give me something else picky eater.
RRs are supposed to be lean athletic hounds - they are not supposed to have the outline of a lab. There are waaaaaay too many people that have obese RRs that are in denial. Hopefully these musings will help set your expectations about the breed ... there is one thing that I didnt mention, to lovers of the breed, RRs are like potato chips or peanuts, one is never enough!!! By Carole Bradley-Kennedy (as posted for RRCUS)  Rhodesian ridgeback standard clearly says: Colour: Light wheaten to red wheaten Wheaten is derived from the noun that describes grains that have that specific color that is in the written standard of the breed, but if you ask us, this is also the colour of Africa. Savannah and desert shine in the same shades :). Denise Flaim, the breeder and journalist from the US described it really good: "Wheaten, which literally means the color of wheat, isn’t one flat, monochromatic color. If you look close up at a single Ridgeback hair, you will find that it’s actually banded, with light and dark shades ranging from a gold to a red. This variegation in the coat is what gives it “life.” Look at these beautuful wheaten landscapes...this is excatly the colour that our breed has.   A Ridgeback should not look like it has been dipped in a bucket of paint. The color must not the same on all parts of the body. It is always bit lighter on the scapula part, on the neck and stomach as well on the the back of the legs and buttocks. This is probably why the word "wheaten" is chosen because it describes Ridgeback coat the best. 
 Denise said also: "Just as a wheat field may be many different colors, depending on the maturity of the crop, so too do Ridgeback coats vary. The lighter ones are a pale flaxen color, almost blonde, while on the other end of the spectrum dogs can be a rich reddish tone, though it should never appear muddy or mahogany, like that of an Irish Setter." Ridgebacks should not be too dark.  
Dark red dogs are flashy an fashionable and in many parts of the world, even deep-red, mahogany or chocolate Ridgebacks which are even not in standard– have pushed out other wheaten shades. Allaround judges mostly always award darker dogs in front of light ones because they are not deep enough in the standard so they think Ridgeback should be dark, but the breed specialist judges are always happy to see different shades of wheaten colour in the dogshow ring. Light wheatens can still be found in Scandinavia, the United Kingdom and the United States but down in Europe there are few that we know and are imported from the USA. Hopefully in the future we will meet more "blondies" around, MID WHEATEN 
Our CIB MultiCh GCh BISS Mohaget's Major Maddox and his son Jamal Jambo Neomele are beautiful mid wheaten representatives of the breed RED WHEATEN  Our Jada Jambo Neomele and Ch Elvis Neomele have a darker shade of wheaten colour - red wheaten  LIGHT WHEATEN  GCH VYRTUOUS CAMEO PERFORMANCE SC (USA) The most beautiful light-wheaten Ridgeback we have evers seen  We are so happy that we will add to our wheaten spectre one beautiful light wheaten girl from the last Komainu litter and then we will have a nice range of wheaten colours in our kennel. Another light wheaten girl we have will also end up in breeding in other part of the Europe as she goes to the kennel, so we hope that the number of light wheaten dogs will start to rise and that the breed will be back on the track with its colours.
What is interesting about our Komainu litter is that we have a huge spectrum of wheaten shades :) from light wheaten to the deep red wheaten ones. If you are not deep enough into the breed, you would probably say: " Wooooo wo woooo...wait a minute! In a previous text you wrote that Ridgebacks should not be too dark! What about that dark puppy on the left side of a photo?". Ridgeback puppies change coat colour while they grow. They start to change to a different color within a few short weeks after it's first day of birth. Although most of the change in color occurs within a few weeks, Ridgeback puppies will continue to change color all the way through puppy hood and adolescence, although to a much lesser, almost imperceptible degree. They eventually will settle into a their permanent coat color by the time they are about 6 to 7 months old. So if you love some special wheaten shade, while choosing a puppy, look at the colour of puppy's forehead or legs below elbows. The wheaten shade on these parts of body will be the shade that your dog will have as an adult! Good to know, ha?! :)  KOMAINU litter So, it is important to understand that Ridgebacks should not be very dark.
It should not be mahogany or chocolate. These colours are not in Ridgeback standard. Ridgebacks are "wheaten" in all shades from light-wheaten over mid-wheaten to the red-wheaten colour and we love them all. BUT WHO COULD RESIST THEM? Nelson Mandela couldn't, even Patrick Swayze, Anthony Kiedis, David Bowie, Princess Charlene of Monaco, Prince Rainier III of Monaco, Oliver Martinez, Charlize Theron, astronaut Leland Meldwin, Kylie Minoque, Kit Harington, Kate Moss, Isiah Mustafa, Errol Flynn, Jason Lewis, and tennis player Borna Čorić (who owns a girl Nala from our breeding <3), NBA player Blake Griffin, american football player Tim Tebow....... Probably there are many more but we do not know who else is under the spell of this beautiful breed :)    
       
    Dog owners should know that regular cleaning of their dog's teeth is extremely important for their dog's health. As with humans, dogs develop plaque. Plaque is a gummy substance that forms on the teeth within a few hours after a meal. Within 24 hours, plaque begins to harden by combining with salts that are present in the saliva. As the plaque continues to accumulate and mineralize, it eventually transforms into tartar. Tartar, also called calculus, is rough and porous and can develop above and below the gum line. There are two ways that tartar harms the teeth and gums. First, tartar forms a rough surface serving as a place for bacteria to grow and multiply in the mouth. Bacteria can cause inflammation of the gums (gingivitis), which often results in painful bleeding. Gingivitis often progresses to periodontal disease, which leads to further inflammation, pain, and tooth loss (see handout "Dental Disease in Dogs" for further information). As tartar builds up along the gum line, it pushes the gums away from the roots of the teeth. As the gums recede, they expose the sensitive, enamel-free part of the tooth which causes sensitivity and pain and of course your dog will have a really bad smell from the mouth.  Second, the bacteria on the tartar can be absorbed into the blood stream and deposited in various organs, including the heart and the kidneys, causing infection.  The internet is full of advices on how to brush your dog's teeth on a daily basis, but your dog probably won't find it fun at all. In addition, it is necessary to buy toothbrushes and toothpastes for dogs. But if you ask us, it is more important to buy dental treats and chew toys for your dog to clean his teeth.  What we do? :) Every few weeks we give our dogs to chew a raw bone (more about that you can read in our blog - "Bones do and don't"). It is important that the bone is previously frozen and defrozen on the room temperature. When chewing the bone, your dog will perfectly clean the molars, premolars and incisors but since the dog does not use canine teeth for chewing, this is the only tooth you should try to clean.  FUNCTIONS OF DOG TEETH INCISORS Dogs have a total of 12 incisors in their mouths consisting of six incisors in their upper jaw and six incisors in the lower jaw. These single-rooted teeth have several functions. If you watch your dog chew on a bone, you'll likely notice that he doesn't seem to use his incisors much, but if you give your dog a bone with some meat attached, you may notice that he'll use this front teeth to rip and scrape the meat off the bone. For sake of comparison, the action is similar to when we remove kernels of corn on a cob. On top of being used to scrape bones, those incisors also come handy for removing burrs from the coat and carrying objects around. CANINE TEETH Right next to the incisors are a dog's canine teeth. Dogs have four canine teeth, two in the top and two in the bottom. When the dog's mouth closes, these canine teeth should intersect nicely when they meet in a scissor bite. Canines are those sharp and pointy single-rooted teeth that are common in meat-eating animals. What are a dog's canine teeth used for? A dog's canine teeth were very important for survival purposes, as they allowed dogs to inflict several stabbing wounds to their prey. They also helped in catching and holding prey and tearing carcasses apart. PREMOLARS Dogs have a total of 16 premolars, eight in the upper jaw and eight in the lower one. They are located behind the dog's canine teeth. Also known as cheek teeth, some of the farthest premolars are only seen when a dog's lips are pulled back. If you watch your dog chew on a toy or bone, you'll likely see him tilt his head to the side so that he can use his premolars. In the wild these teeth are used to rip meat away from bones. The arrangement of these teeth somewhat resembles shears with a serrated blade, an arrangement that helps dogs break food into smaller pieces, courtesy of these teeths' sharp edges. MOLARS There are four molars in the dog's top jaw and six molars in the lower jaw. Often people become aware of their existence only when the vet mentions that one or more of these teeth need extracted. What are a dog's molars used for? We can get a clue from these teeth's flat surfaces. Dog molars are crafted so to allow dogs to grind foods like their kibble and crush bones. Mother dogs also rely on their molars to snip off the pups' umbilical cord. If you notice that canine tooth has some tartar, the best way to take tartar from the tooth is to use a dental tool for taking the tartar from the canine teeth. This is what we do!!!  You can buy this tool on ebay, Amazon and other selling platforms. To take a tartar from the tooth, use the tool with wider end and just scratch down the tartar in direction from the root to the top of the tooth. Of course you should do everything slowly. Let the dog smell the tool and prepare treats. Take one stroke of the tool on the tooth, give the treat to dog immediately and continue like this...and in about 15 minutes, the canine teeth will be clean.  The most important is that you teach your dog from the puppy age that it is normal to enter his mouth and not to leave his teeth to get tartar.
If you will not care you will soon or later have to sedate your dog to have the vet clean them with an ultrasound, and why to sedate dog if you can continously take care of the teeth?. It is much simpler to do it with raw bones that dogs like to chew and with a dental tool to clean the cacines while sitting with your dog on sofa.:)  When we started to show our dogs, we have been totally lost. How? Where? When? What to do? Everything was total SF and it was really hard to understand the system and the rules. This is why we will not copy HKS regulations with its all articles and complete rules, because it would be too much for you to process all info and you will be also lost as we were. We will try to explain how it works as simple as we can :) and we will write only some details which will make you understand better. Later with time and more showing experience, you will become an expert and you will know everything about when to enter the ring, what to win and achieve, where to go and collect titles and what to do :). Until then, just let us to guid you with all that you need in order to attend the dogshows. If you want to know all dogshow details and regulations already now, you can find it on the following link: web.hks.hr/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Pravilnik-o-Strucnom-radu-2022_sa- From page 37 you can find everything about dogshow rules The dog has to collect a number of candidatures to gain championship For every championship there are special rules and regulations how many titles dog should collect, in which period and from how many different judges. TYPES OF DOGSHOWS There are 3 types of conformation dog shows: ALL BREED SHOWS (national and international) All-breed shows offer competitions for all breeds. National dogshows recognized by HKS (Hrvatski kinološki savez) where you may win CAC title. CAC is candidature for National championship in beauty .  International dogshows are recognized by the FCI (FederationCynologiqueInternationale) & HKS. On these shows dog can win CACIB title. CACIB is candidature for International beauty champion (C.I.B.)  SPECIALITY AND CLUBSHOWS Speciealities and club shows are restricted to dogs of a specific breed or to varieties of only one breed - recognized by HKS. GROUP SHOWS Group shows are limited to dogs belonging to one of the 10 FCI groups - recognized by HKS. For all type of exhibitions under the protection of FCI and HKS, the division of breeds is mandatory according to to the valid division of FCI-group breeds, namely: FCI 1 Sheepdogs and cattledogs (except Swiss catledogs) FCI 2 Pinschers and Schnauzers, Molossians and Swiss Shepherds FCI 3 Terriers FCI 4 Dachshunds FCI 5 Spitz and primitive type dogs FCI 6 Scent hounds and related breeds FCI 7 Pointing dogs FCI 8 Retrievers, water dogs, Flushing dogs FCI 9 Dogs for companionship and play FCI 10 Sighthounds Ridgebacks are in FCI 6 group! THE ROLE OF THE JUDGE The judges are experts on the breeds they are judging. Judges examine the dogs, then give awards according to how closely each dog compares to the judge’s mental image of the “perfect” dog described in the breed’s official standard. They examine (“go over”) each dog with their hands to see if the teeth, muscles, bones and coat texture conform to the breed’s standard. They view each dog in profile for overall balance, and watch each dog gait (“move”) to see how all of those features fit together in action. Judges award first through 4 places in each class and give titles to the best ones.  Breed specialist judge: Orit Nevo judging Maddox - Geneve HOW IT WORKS? Each dog presented to a judge is exhibited (“handled”) by its owner, breeder or a hired professional. The role of a handler is similar to that of a jockey who rides a horse around the track and, hopefully, into the winner’s circle. COMPETITION IN CLASSES Males and females compete separately within their respective breeds, in regular classes: Baby class 3-6 months Puppy class 6-9 months Junior class 9-18 months Intermedia class 15-24months Open class from 15 months Working class from 15 monhs-dogs with working exam Champion class from 15months-champions only Veteran class from age of 8 years  Jada at National dogshow PUPPY AND BABY CLASS in these early age classes you can get one of the comments "very promising", "prospecting", "satisfies" or "does not satisfy". Dogs rated in these classes are ranked from 1 - 4. The judge awards male or female puppy for the title Best puppy or Best baby depending on a class. In puppy and baby class dogs compete for titles and are attending shows so they may become FUTURE HOPE OF CROATIA The title Future hope of Croatia will be awarded to the dog that achieved: - 3 x descriptive ratings "very promising" and was first placed 3 times in the puppy class or the baby class - descriptive marks must be awarded by three different judges- the first descriptive assessment must be completed after February 1, 2019 JUNIOR CLASS The title of Junior winner can only be awarded in the junior class to the best dog that was rated "excellent" for both males and females. Between these two winners the judge chooses Junior Best of breed. Juniors are competing and attending dogshows so they may become JUNIOR CHAMPION OF CROTIA - CHM HR The title "Junior Champion of Croatia (CHM HR)" will be awarded by HKS to a dog that won: - 3 x Junior winner titles in the junior class - titles must be awarded by at least two different judges - one Junior winner title can be replaced by a won CAC HR candidacy if the dog acquired it before the age of 18 months ADULT CLASSES INTERMEDIA - OPEN - CHAMPION Dogs are awarded, regardless of the age and number of dogs for assessment, the following grades: "excellent", "very good", "good", "sufficient" or "insufficient". A ranking of 1 - 4 in each exhibition class is mandatory if the dog is rated at least very good. TITLES FOR CHAMPIONSHIPS IN ADULT CLASSES CAC & r.CAC title At international and national dogshows and at special dogshows, which are under the protection of HKS , the judge can award the Candidacy for the champion of Croatia in beauty – CAC HR to the first-placed excellently rated male and female in the following classes: intermediate, open, working and champions. The reserve candidacy of the Reserve CAC HR judge can be awarded to the second best excellently rated male and female in the following classes: intermediate class, open, workers and champions. Adult dogs compete in these classes and attend dogshows to collect CAC titles in order to become CHAMPION OF CROATIA IN BEAUTY - CH HR The title "Champion of Croatia in beauty" (CH HR) will be awarded by HKS to a dog that is won: 4 X CAC HR candidacies - of the four candidacies, at least two must be won at an international exhibition - candidacies must be awarded by at least three different judges - in addition to the above conditions, the title can be assigned to a dog only after the age of over 24 months Once your dog became a Croatian champion, he can compete only in champion class on Croatian shows. Once you became a champion, you may continue to compete for a title GRAND CHAMPION OF CROATIA - CH HR - G The title "Grand Champion of Croatia" will be awarded by the HKS to a dog that meets the following conditions: - the dog must be declared Champion of Croatia in Beauty (CH HR) . - 4 x CAC-HR candidacies won in the champion class after winning the title Champion of Croatia in Beauty (CH HR) -at least two must be won at an international exhibition - candidacies must be won by at least three different judges; 5. the first CAC-HR should be won after March 1, 2015  When your dog will be at the age of 8 years, you will start to compete in Veteran class VETERAN CLASS The title of the veteran winner can only be awarded in the veteran class to the best dog that was rated "excellent" for both males and females. The judge decides who will be the Best veteran between male and female. VETERAN CHAMPION OF CROATIA - CHV HR The title "Veteran Champion of Croatia (CHV HR)" will be awarded to the dog by HKS upon request of the owner who won: - 3 x Veteran winner - titles must be awarded by at least two different judges. CACIB TITLE CACIB is candidature for International beauty champion and it is possible to win on International show. The judge is awarding best adult male and best adult female with the CACIB on International dogshow. INTERNATIONAL CHAMPION - INT CH (C.I.B) - 4 CACIB candidacies in 3 different countries and from 3 different judges - between the first and last candidacy achieved, at least one must pass year (365 days) Titles like Junior Best of breed (JBOB), Best of opposite sex (BOS) & Best of Breed (BOB) do not count for any championship but these titles are prestige and they open the doors to Best in show competition. OTHER TITLES BEST OF OPPOSITE SEX - BOS International dogshow CACIB (male or female), Junior winner (male or female), and the Veteran winner (male or female) of the opposite sex to that in who was awarded the title of BEST OF THE BREED. National and special and club shows For this title compete all males or all females with titles won CAC HR, Junior winner male or female, and Veteran winner male or a female of the opposite sex to the one in which the BEST OF BREED title was awarded. BEST OF BREED - BOB International dogshow Competing for this title: CACIB male, CACIB female and Junior winner male and female, Veteran winner male and female National dogshow All males and females that won CAC title + Junior winner male and female + Veteran winner male and female  BEST IN SHOW COMPETITION After judging in the rings, where judges have choosed the best dogs from each breed the show program of the selection of the most beautiful dogs on the show starts. No titles from this part of the show are used for championships but it is prestige to have this titles in front of the name of your dog because the Best in show competition is reserved for the best dogs :) The program contains: - selection of the best young handler (junior handling) selection of the most beautiful baby - selection of the most beautiful puppy - selection of the most beautiful veteran of the exhibition, - choice of the most beautiful couple - selection of the most beautiful breeding group - selection of the most beautiful hunting dog from the working class, - selection of the most beautiful junior dog - selection of the most beautiful dogs by FCI groups (from I. to X.) - BOB winners - the selection of the most beautiful dog of the exhibition – BIS (Best in Show), within all winners from the group competition. In each of the mentioned categories, ranking from 1st to 3rd place is mandatory BREEDING GROUP All breeders who can meet the following conditions can apply for the competition the most beautiful breeding groups. - The breeding group consists of at least 3 dogs, which must be individually registered for the exhibition, entered in the catalog and positively evaluated at the exhibition. -All dogs of one breeding group must be from the breeding of one breeder, but no they must be owned by him. COUPLE The couple consists of a male and a female who are registered for the exhibition, entered in the catalog and positive judged at the exhibition. Both dogs must be owned by the same owner. This is summary of the most important things you should try to understand. Everything else you may find on the HKS link in this article!
We are here to support you!  People generally don't know much about dog shows or have any idea what they are for Showing dogs is essential for the development of any breed. The purpose of dog shows is to obtain independent judgment from a number of qualified judges that a dog is a good representative of the breed, as measured by the written breed standard. Such dogs can later be used in breeding after passing breeding exam, x-ray and got genetically tested on hereditary diseases.. For this very reason, breeders participate in competitions to show off their best specimens and to see what direction other breeders are going with their breeding. It's much easier today where the entire strong connected RR community follows all the dogs on social networks but it's much better to see dog in person than in photos, and there is no better place for that than a show ring. You see whole appereance, vibe and the most important you can feel dogs temperament and character what is very important in breeding! To meet dogs and breeders is much more important than gaining the titles, although a quality dog will will have a large number of championships, titles and awards anyway. This is exactly why, if the breeder suggests that you go to a dog show, be sure that you have a super quality dog. Quality dogs should not live in shadow, they should help the breed.  Excitement, socializing and great cooperation with your dog Cooperating with a dog in the ring is a totally cool thing! You are deepening the relationship with your dog, dog is learning to be focused and to follow you all the time. You work together and compete with excitement to perform at your best and this is so fun. It is also good mental training for both of you. You both act like one. Of course, you just cannot go to showring without previous training. You should prepare yourself for the show and learn how to show the dog, as well dog has to be trained well. In the beginning, you will fight with yourself until you perfect your handling skills, but later the real competition begins where you will try to to make the best impression on the judge and win. This is also great way of socialization for your dog! You will be surrounded with plenty of dogs and your dog will learn to act and be calm and focused on you and in all kind of enviroments and situations. 
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It is a kind of adventured nomadic life with the aim of having a good time, exchanging experiences, rising up your competetive spirit, working with your dog, gaining new friendships and all of that because of our beautiful breed.
As a new owner, you may feel that once you’ve purchased the puppy and brought him home, the breeder has done his or her part and now you’re on your own.
But it is not so!
Even when you buy a new car you are able to contact the manufacturer, the car dealer or someone involved with that purchase. Why would you not want to be able to contact someone that you got your dog from?
We are sure most breeders would rather have you asking them these questions then asking on an online forum or group where you could possibly get the wrong information or too much information.
Responsible breeders care about the puppies and are interested in hearing what’s going on with your no matter if it is good and bad and definitely your breeder will have suggestions and solutions for pretty much everything to do with your new puppy.
After all, we have planned the litter of a specific bloodline and we have raised the pups for the first few weeks of their lives.Because of our experience and care for our buyers we should be your go-to resource when you have questions or problems.
But it is not so!
Even when you buy a new car you are able to contact the manufacturer, the car dealer or someone involved with that purchase. Why would you not want to be able to contact someone that you got your dog from?
We are sure most breeders would rather have you asking them these questions then asking on an online forum or group where you could possibly get the wrong information or too much information.
Responsible breeders care about the puppies and are interested in hearing what’s going on with your no matter if it is good and bad and definitely your breeder will have suggestions and solutions for pretty much everything to do with your new puppy.
After all, we have planned the litter of a specific bloodline and we have raised the pups for the first few weeks of their lives.Because of our experience and care for our buyers we should be your go-to resource when you have questions or problems.
Who is better than the breeder to answer your questions and help you come up with solutions?
WHAT IF?
Your life may change in such a way that you can no longer keep the dog.
In this case, according to the contract you signed with us it’s essential that you contact us.
Any reputable breeder will be willing to take the puppy back, even in his later years.
If this happens to you, don’t be afraid to call for fear of being judged.
It is our first responsibility to the dog, and we will take the dog back and do everything they can to place him in a new home.
Your life may change in such a way that you can no longer keep the dog.
In this case, according to the contract you signed with us it’s essential that you contact us.
Any reputable breeder will be willing to take the puppy back, even in his later years.
If this happens to you, don’t be afraid to call for fear of being judged.
It is our first responsibility to the dog, and we will take the dog back and do everything they can to place him in a new home.
By staying in touch, you’re sharing information that’s very valuable to us.
We will be updated about any temperament, health, or other problems your puppy has, and this will help us in order to make future breeding decisions.
The breeder cares about breeding the healthiest dogs possible, and input from you is important for us.
With this information we can check to see if any other puppies in the litter are experiencing the same health issues and we can look at our breeding program and see if we can trace the issues back which can help determine if maybe the issue is genetic or environmental.
We will be updated about any temperament, health, or other problems your puppy has, and this will help us in order to make future breeding decisions.
The breeder cares about breeding the healthiest dogs possible, and input from you is important for us.
With this information we can check to see if any other puppies in the litter are experiencing the same health issues and we can look at our breeding program and see if we can trace the issues back which can help determine if maybe the issue is genetic or environmental.
We always try to ask our puppy buyers to let us know about a possible health problem with the dog.
We work closely with a exerienced veterinarian who, in addition to having 2 ridgebacks, knows the breed extremely well and she is always there for us.
veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/
Through cooperation and consultation, we will make the best decision for you and your dog.
We work closely with a exerienced veterinarian who, in addition to having 2 ridgebacks, knows the breed extremely well and she is always there for us.
veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/
Through cooperation and consultation, we will make the best decision for you and your dog.
Sharing is caring!
DOG COAT
Since Ridgebacks have no undercoat, they literally freeze, especially if they are not active outdoors.
So yes, it would be a good to buy a coat for your dogs to protect them from the cold.
More about this theme you may find under our blog
YES! WE NEED WINTER COATS!
So yes, it would be a good to buy a coat for your dogs to protect them from the cold.
More about this theme you may find under our blog
YES! WE NEED WINTER COATS!
CHECK THE PAWS AND RINSE THEM WITH WATER AFTER A WALK
During the winter, many roads, sidewalks and paths are sprinkled with salt to prevent the ground from freezing and this is a danger four our dog paws.
If you notice your dog’s paw pads are red, swollen or irritated, or your pup starts limping and even refuses to walk outside during winter, they may be experiencing the negative physical effects of rock salt.
One of the worst things you can do if you notice your dog in discomfort is continue to let them walk on the melting product. If your dog’s paw pads are already cracked and broken, the pain will be intensified by walking on more salt and literally rubbing salt in the wounds.
We recommend to wash and rinse their paws after your walk!
DO NOT PUT ANY BALM ON THE PAW PADS FOR PROTECTION!
BALM IS NEEDED ONLY IF THE PADS ARE HURT, SO THEY CAN HEAL BETTER!
There are all kinds of smart and extremely stupid tips on the internet, including the one to put balm on paw pads in the winter, which makes no sense at all.
For dogs the pads are like shoe soles, and if we soften them by balming them, they will be less resistant to the ground surface.
Balm is an option only as healing balm if the paws are already cracked, swollen or irritated.
If you notice your dog’s paw pads are red, swollen or irritated, or your pup starts limping and even refuses to walk outside during winter, they may be experiencing the negative physical effects of rock salt.
One of the worst things you can do if you notice your dog in discomfort is continue to let them walk on the melting product. If your dog’s paw pads are already cracked and broken, the pain will be intensified by walking on more salt and literally rubbing salt in the wounds.
We recommend to wash and rinse their paws after your walk!
DO NOT PUT ANY BALM ON THE PAW PADS FOR PROTECTION!
BALM IS NEEDED ONLY IF THE PADS ARE HURT, SO THEY CAN HEAL BETTER!
There are all kinds of smart and extremely stupid tips on the internet, including the one to put balm on paw pads in the winter, which makes no sense at all.
For dogs the pads are like shoe soles, and if we soften them by balming them, they will be less resistant to the ground surface.
Balm is an option only as healing balm if the paws are already cracked, swollen or irritated.
KEEP YOUR DOG OUT OF COLD CARS
For dogs, cold cars can be just as dangerous as hot cars, for the same reason: the car traps air inside, acting like a refrigerator.
Never leave your dog unattended in a car in extreme temperatures, even for short periods.
Never leave your dog unattended in a car in extreme temperatures, even for short periods.
EAR TIP INJURY
Almost every Ridgie had this injury in a lifetime
It happens more often in winter because ears are cold, but winter is not only cause for this injury.
It can also be playing with another dog or striking their ear tip on a hard object while shaking their head or the like but most of these injuries happen during the winter.
The ear tip is a vulnerable piece of skin that can be damaged easily and once damaged, bleeds readily (and sometimes profusely) and is slow to heal.
It can also be playing with another dog or striking their ear tip on a hard object while shaking their head or the like but most of these injuries happen during the winter.
The ear tip is a vulnerable piece of skin that can be damaged easily and once damaged, bleeds readily (and sometimes profusely) and is slow to heal.
Bebe with the bandage on the top of the ear
Treatment varies depending on if the skin has been torn, cut, punctured or if the tip has just generally eroded (sometimes called an ulcer).
If you notice a sore on the tip of the ear, you must immediately start treatment so that it does not get bigger, because every time the dog shakes its head, the scab will burst, the iho will bleed again and the wound will deepen and this can be neverending and can last for months with possible erosion of the top of the ear.
It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks, then several more months of daily vitamin E oil and lanolin, Melem cream, Elisabeth Arden - 8 hour cream or any other cream with similar texture to help support the new, healthy tissue.
If you notice a sore on the tip of the ear, you must immediately start treatment so that it does not get bigger, because every time the dog shakes its head, the scab will burst, the iho will bleed again and the wound will deepen and this can be neverending and can last for months with possible erosion of the top of the ear.
It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks, then several more months of daily vitamin E oil and lanolin, Melem cream, Elisabeth Arden - 8 hour cream or any other cream with similar texture to help support the new, healthy tissue.
Bebe is wearing the snood on the head to protect an injured ear
When the ear has the wound even if it is protected with bandage, there is still danger that it will be hurt again if your dog shakes the head.
So it is good to get a "snood" for the head which will definitely slow down ears when shaking head and keep them protected.
WHAT DO YOU NEED FOR THIS BANDAGE?
Medical tape
Sterile gauze or cotton wool
Ointment which helps speed up and improve the process of reepithelialization and tissue renewal or just a natural honey.
veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/
is producing Ointment speed renewal cream upon a request!
HOW TO DO IT
Clean the wound, apply small piece of sterile gauze or cotton wool over it.
Cut the medical tape to a length of approximately 5 cm.
Glue the tape starting on the inside ear, then fold it over the top of the ear (where the wound is located) and glue the rest of the tape to the outside of the ear.
It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks.
After the wound is healed, continue to apply oil and cream on the top of the ear for at least month to help and support new tissue of an ear.
So it is good to get a "snood" for the head which will definitely slow down ears when shaking head and keep them protected.
WHAT DO YOU NEED FOR THIS BANDAGE?
Medical tape
Sterile gauze or cotton wool
Ointment which helps speed up and improve the process of reepithelialization and tissue renewal or just a natural honey.
veterinarska-praksa-uvodic.webnode.hr/
is producing Ointment speed renewal cream upon a request!
HOW TO DO IT
Clean the wound, apply small piece of sterile gauze or cotton wool over it.
Cut the medical tape to a length of approximately 5 cm.
Glue the tape starting on the inside ear, then fold it over the top of the ear (where the wound is located) and glue the rest of the tape to the outside of the ear.
It is important to apply the bandage for as long as the dog will leave it on, then replace as soon as the tape appears to be loosening/peeling away from the skin.
Total treatment time is often 3-to-6-weeks.
After the wound is healed, continue to apply oil and cream on the top of the ear for at least month to help and support new tissue of an ear.
If somebody told us that we would have to buy coats for our dogs, and then for Ridgebacks....we would say: "Gimme a break!"
But the fact is, Ridgebacks do need a winter coat to protect them when the temperatures are really low.
Since they have no undercoat, they literally freeze, especially if they are not active outdoors.
So yes, it would be a good to buy a coat for your dogs to protect them from the cold.
But the fact is, Ridgebacks do need a winter coat to protect them when the temperatures are really low.
Since they have no undercoat, they literally freeze, especially if they are not active outdoors.
So yes, it would be a good to buy a coat for your dogs to protect them from the cold.
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The coat for Ridgeback has to be durable and breathable.
Ridgebacks are active and while playing, they are incredibly agile, fast and rough and any coat that has only a velcro closure system will fall off them or keep opening and this is not funny at all.
Therefore, it is necessary that it has a good clip that will hold the coat well on the dog's body.
The coat should have water resistant nylon shell to keep them dry and it should have fleece inside to warm them up. It should be easy to put on and off, should cover the body as much as possible, but should not limit the dogs' movement. Dogs should move freely!.
It should be visible have reflective details for safety while walking your dogs at day or night so they are more visible in surroundings.
Ridgebacks are active and while playing, they are incredibly agile, fast and rough and any coat that has only a velcro closure system will fall off them or keep opening and this is not funny at all.
Therefore, it is necessary that it has a good clip that will hold the coat well on the dog's body.
The coat should have water resistant nylon shell to keep them dry and it should have fleece inside to warm them up. It should be easy to put on and off, should cover the body as much as possible, but should not limit the dogs' movement. Dogs should move freely!.
It should be visible have reflective details for safety while walking your dogs at day or night so they are more visible in surroundings.
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We tried all kinds of coats and most of them just didn't pass the test.
After some time we found the perfect coat for our dogs. It's not cheap, but it's absolutely worth the investment because this coat is of exceptional quality. Easy to care, after many washes this coat still looks like it is new and we like it.
GREAT WHITE NORTH DOG COAT
chillydogs.ca/great-white-north-coat/
If you have a puppy, wait with this investement until it becomes adult dog! Some cheaper coats for puppies will be suitable as well.
After some time we found the perfect coat for our dogs. It's not cheap, but it's absolutely worth the investment because this coat is of exceptional quality. Easy to care, after many washes this coat still looks like it is new and we like it.
GREAT WHITE NORTH DOG COAT
chillydogs.ca/great-white-north-coat/
If you have a puppy, wait with this investement until it becomes adult dog! Some cheaper coats for puppies will be suitable as well.
For many of us, summer means getting outside and enjoying time in nature with our dogs!
Unfortunately, this also means that our pets can be exposed to new dangers. Summer temperatures, the great outdoors, swimming, and barbecues all pose health risks to our pets if not monitored closely.
Read more about what to look out for during the summer, what you can do to prevent these dangers, and how to act if an accident occurs!
Unfortunately, this also means that our pets can be exposed to new dangers. Summer temperatures, the great outdoors, swimming, and barbecues all pose health risks to our pets if not monitored closely.
Read more about what to look out for during the summer, what you can do to prevent these dangers, and how to act if an accident occurs!
Heat Stroke
One of the biggest summer dangers for dogs is the heat.
Tragically, every year dogs die from heat stroke after being left in cars.
Dogs can also suffer from heat stroke when exercising in hot weather, especially without access to sufficient drinking water.
Dogs are very sensitive to heat because they cannot regulate their body temperature by sweating to cool down, in the way that humans do. Heat stroke is a life-threatening condition that causes great suffering and can cause serious damage to internal organs.
Symptoms of Heat Stroke in Dogs
Early signs of heat stroke may be subtle, and it’s important to know what’s normal for your dog.
If gone untreated, heat stroke may lead to collapse or even death.
Signs to look out for include:
Becoming anxious, barking, whining or trembling
Faster and heavier panting than normal
Seeking shade or reluctance to move
Excessive drooling or increased thirst
Increased heart rate
Elevated rectal temperature
Deep red or purple gums that feel dry when touched
Vomitting and/or diarrhea
Mental dullness or glassy eyes
Weakness or wobbling
Difficulty breathing and collapse
Loss of consciousness
NEVER LET YOUR DOG IN THE CAR DURING HOT DAYS!
NEVER WALK YOUR DOG IN THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY!
DO NOT EXPOSE YOUR DOG TO ALL DAY SUN!
One of the biggest summer dangers for dogs is the heat.
Tragically, every year dogs die from heat stroke after being left in cars.
Dogs can also suffer from heat stroke when exercising in hot weather, especially without access to sufficient drinking water.
Dogs are very sensitive to heat because they cannot regulate their body temperature by sweating to cool down, in the way that humans do. Heat stroke is a life-threatening condition that causes great suffering and can cause serious damage to internal organs.
Symptoms of Heat Stroke in Dogs
Early signs of heat stroke may be subtle, and it’s important to know what’s normal for your dog.
If gone untreated, heat stroke may lead to collapse or even death.
Signs to look out for include:
Becoming anxious, barking, whining or trembling
Faster and heavier panting than normal
Seeking shade or reluctance to move
Excessive drooling or increased thirst
Increased heart rate
Elevated rectal temperature
Deep red or purple gums that feel dry when touched
Vomitting and/or diarrhea
Mental dullness or glassy eyes
Weakness or wobbling
Difficulty breathing and collapse
Loss of consciousness
NEVER LET YOUR DOG IN THE CAR DURING HOT DAYS!
NEVER WALK YOUR DOG IN THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY!
DO NOT EXPOSE YOUR DOG TO ALL DAY SUN!
What can you do to help your dog?
If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, it’s important to act quickly!
Move your dog to a cool, quiet area
Offer fresh water to drink. Alternatively, a small syringe can be used to put drops of water on the dog’s tongue. Don’t force the dog to drink a large volume of water or force a syringe into its mouth.
Actively cool the dog by wetting her fur and paws, but don’t submerge her head in water.
Cold wet towels can be placed on the stomach, armpits, and paw pads. Refresh them frequently.
Mild heat stroke may not require further treatment, but you should always consult your veterinarian for advice.
If your dog is in distress or collapsed, he must be taken to the veterinary clinic right away.
Treatment of Heat Stroke in Dogs
In severe cases of heat stroke, rapid veterinary treatment is required - every minute counts!
Call the vet to alert them that you’re on the way.
On the way to the clinic, continue to cool your dog, if possible. Use a cold wet towel on her body and offer plenty of fresh cold water to drink.
If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, it’s important to act quickly!
Move your dog to a cool, quiet area
Offer fresh water to drink. Alternatively, a small syringe can be used to put drops of water on the dog’s tongue. Don’t force the dog to drink a large volume of water or force a syringe into its mouth.
Actively cool the dog by wetting her fur and paws, but don’t submerge her head in water.
Cold wet towels can be placed on the stomach, armpits, and paw pads. Refresh them frequently.
Mild heat stroke may not require further treatment, but you should always consult your veterinarian for advice.
If your dog is in distress or collapsed, he must be taken to the veterinary clinic right away.
Treatment of Heat Stroke in Dogs
In severe cases of heat stroke, rapid veterinary treatment is required - every minute counts!
Call the vet to alert them that you’re on the way.
On the way to the clinic, continue to cool your dog, if possible. Use a cold wet towel on her body and offer plenty of fresh cold water to drink.
Insect Bites and Stings
Bites or stings from insects such as wasps, ants, and mosquitoes rarely make dogs ill, but they can be itchy and sore.
Some dogs, however, are hypersensitive and may have allergic reactions to these insects. The more bites or stings a dog gets at one time, the greater the risk of a more severe reaction. S
igns of an acute anaphylactic reaction include:
swelling at the bite site, hives, difficulty breathing, pale gums, collapse, and potentially death. Itching, facial swelling, panting, vomiting, and diarrhea are further signs of an allergic reaction.
If you see these, please seek prompt veterinary advice.
.Pain associated with a sting can be reduced by holding a cold wet cloth, or ice cubes wrapped in a damp cloth, against the skin. Remove the stinger, if possible, and bathe the skin with cool water.
However, if your dog is stung by several wasps, a whole swam or near the mouth, seek vet advice immediately.
Occasionally, your vet may need to give a corticosteroid injection, tablets, or a topical cream to reduce swelling and other signs.
Bites or stings from insects such as wasps, ants, and mosquitoes rarely make dogs ill, but they can be itchy and sore.
Some dogs, however, are hypersensitive and may have allergic reactions to these insects. The more bites or stings a dog gets at one time, the greater the risk of a more severe reaction. S
igns of an acute anaphylactic reaction include:
swelling at the bite site, hives, difficulty breathing, pale gums, collapse, and potentially death. Itching, facial swelling, panting, vomiting, and diarrhea are further signs of an allergic reaction.
If you see these, please seek prompt veterinary advice.
.Pain associated with a sting can be reduced by holding a cold wet cloth, or ice cubes wrapped in a damp cloth, against the skin. Remove the stinger, if possible, and bathe the skin with cool water.
However, if your dog is stung by several wasps, a whole swam or near the mouth, seek vet advice immediately.
Occasionally, your vet may need to give a corticosteroid injection, tablets, or a topical cream to reduce swelling and other signs.
Seawater
If dogs drink a large amount of saltwater they are likely to suffer from salt poisoning.
However, they may not show signs or only vomit once. In these instances, offer fresh water to drink, little and often. Do not allow them to drink large volumes in one go to avoid further vomiting. cSigns of more severe salt poisoning include continuous vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, stiffness, cramps, and coma. If your dog vomits multiple times, retches repeatedly or is salivating, seek veterinary advice, as your dog may require fluid therapy.
If dogs drink a large amount of saltwater they are likely to suffer from salt poisoning.
However, they may not show signs or only vomit once. In these instances, offer fresh water to drink, little and often. Do not allow them to drink large volumes in one go to avoid further vomiting. cSigns of more severe salt poisoning include continuous vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, stiffness, cramps, and coma. If your dog vomits multiple times, retches repeatedly or is salivating, seek veterinary advice, as your dog may require fluid therapy.
Sunburn
Just like humans, dogs can get a sunburn.
Dogs with thin-skin or very thin fur are most at risk. Dogs, like humans, can be at increased risk of developing skin cancer if they get a sunburn. To prevent sunburn, it is best to ensure that dogs have plenty of access to cool, shady spots, and avoid long periods in the sun.
Just like humans, dogs can get a sunburn.
Dogs with thin-skin or very thin fur are most at risk. Dogs, like humans, can be at increased risk of developing skin cancer if they get a sunburn. To prevent sunburn, it is best to ensure that dogs have plenty of access to cool, shady spots, and avoid long periods in the sun.
Fish Hooks
Dogs who go out with their owners on a fishing trip can sometimes get a fishing hook stuck in their mouth or skin. Fishing hooks often have a barb to prevent the fish detaching. If this is the case, do not try to remove the hook backward (the same way it went in) as you may cause more tissue damage. Instead, try to push the hook forwards through the skin, or use pliers to cut the hook to remove it safely. This is not always easy, especially if the dog is stressed and moving. In many cases, fishing hooks will need to be removed by a vet after a sedative has been given. These types of wounds typically heal very quickly and do not require sutures.
Dogs who go out with their owners on a fishing trip can sometimes get a fishing hook stuck in their mouth or skin. Fishing hooks often have a barb to prevent the fish detaching. If this is the case, do not try to remove the hook backward (the same way it went in) as you may cause more tissue damage. Instead, try to push the hook forwards through the skin, or use pliers to cut the hook to remove it safely. This is not always easy, especially if the dog is stressed and moving. In many cases, fishing hooks will need to be removed by a vet after a sedative has been given. These types of wounds typically heal very quickly and do not require sutures.
Snake bites
more about this topic you will find at our Blog - Dangers in spring :)
more about this topic you will find at our Blog - Dangers in spring :)
It can take up to one month for an old dog and new dog to really settle in and accept each other's position in the pack.
If you want a second dog, you need to be ready to commit to this process and not panic.
General tips
1
Set reasonable goals when you bring a new dog into your pack.
Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.
2
Proceed slowly and calmly.
Slow-paced introductions may help prevent any fear-based or aggressive reactions from developing. If bad behaviors are not reined in from the start, they can become habit and be very hard to change in the future.
3
Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged.
When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times.
The situation can change suddenly.
4
If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.
5
Stay in control of the introduction.
If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe.
Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.
Dog to Dog
Before you bring the new dog (or puppy) home, bring home his scent so your resident pets can be introduced to his smell first.Rub the new dog with a cloth or use a blanket he has slept on and bring it into your home and place it where he will be sleeping.
If you want a second dog, you need to be ready to commit to this process and not panic.
General tips
1
Set reasonable goals when you bring a new dog into your pack.
Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.
2
Proceed slowly and calmly.
Slow-paced introductions may help prevent any fear-based or aggressive reactions from developing. If bad behaviors are not reined in from the start, they can become habit and be very hard to change in the future.
3
Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged.
When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times.
The situation can change suddenly.
4
If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.
5
Stay in control of the introduction.
If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe.
Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.
Dog to Dog
Before you bring the new dog (or puppy) home, bring home his scent so your resident pets can be introduced to his smell first.Rub the new dog with a cloth or use a blanket he has slept on and bring it into your home and place it where he will be sleeping.
Introduce in a Neutral Location
Introduce the dogs in a neutral location that is unfamiliar to both dogs, such as a park. This prevents your resident dog from feeling his territory is being threatened.
Each dog should be on a loosely held six-foot leash and handled by a separate person. Try to stay relaxed so the dogs don’t pick up on any tension you might be feeling.
Don’t force an interaction between the dogs. Just walk near each other for a few minutes. One or both of the dogs may ignore each other, which is fine. Just stay upbeat and give the dogs time to get comfortable with the situation.
Allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few seconds, with the handlers offering high-pitched, happy praise if there are positive signs from the dogs. Then lead the dogs away from each other. Do several more sets of brief introductions, which prevent the dogs from focusing too hard and escalating to an aggressive response.
Refocus each dog’s attention with obedience commands or short walks.
There are two goals with this exercise:
Watch the dogs’ body language.
Things are going well and you can proceed to the next step if you see:
Loose body movements and muscles
Relaxed open mouths
Play bows or other playful posturing
However, take caution if you see:
Stiff, slow body movements
Hair standing up on the back
Tensed mouth or teeth-baring
Growls
Prolonged staring
If you see any of these types of reactions, quickly lead the dogs away from each other and try to get them to focus on you. Then you can try a very brief introduction again, at a further distance. Only proceed to the next step when you see the dogs are tolerating each other.
Managing the New Dog in Your Home
Pick up all pet toys, food bowls, beds and the like before you bring the new dog into the house to prevent any tiffs over prized possessions.
You can return the resident dog’s toys to him in a few weeks, and give the new dogs some new toys of his own.
In the meantime, give the dogs toys only when they are in separate areas or their crates.
When you bring the new dog home, put your current pets in a separate area of your home; then, walk the new dog around your home on a leash to show him where he will sleep and eat, where the other pets sleep and eat, etc.
Establish boundaries in your home by using baby gates and closing off rooms and areas while all the pets acclimate to the new situation. This way they can see and get used to one another. Allow the resident dog to roam the house, while confining the new dog behind a barrier at first.
Keep the resident dog’s areas for sleeping and eating separate so he doesn’t feel his territory is being threatened.
Feed the dogs in separate areas, and pick up their food bowls after feeding time is done.
Keep the dogs confined in separate areas of your home any time you are away or can’t watch them.
While your dogs may enjoy each other as playmates, supervise their play to prevent them from getting over excited, which can lead to injury of one or both dogs.
Interrupt their play if one dog begins to bully or growl at the other, and separate them for a few minutes.
Praise them when they are playing well together.
Remember to devote plenty of time to each dog individually for both training and play. If one dog is much older or less energetic than the other, be sure you give him time and space to himself so he can rest and feel secure.
Introduce the dogs in a neutral location that is unfamiliar to both dogs, such as a park. This prevents your resident dog from feeling his territory is being threatened.
Each dog should be on a loosely held six-foot leash and handled by a separate person. Try to stay relaxed so the dogs don’t pick up on any tension you might be feeling.
Don’t force an interaction between the dogs. Just walk near each other for a few minutes. One or both of the dogs may ignore each other, which is fine. Just stay upbeat and give the dogs time to get comfortable with the situation.
Allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few seconds, with the handlers offering high-pitched, happy praise if there are positive signs from the dogs. Then lead the dogs away from each other. Do several more sets of brief introductions, which prevent the dogs from focusing too hard and escalating to an aggressive response.
Refocus each dog’s attention with obedience commands or short walks.
There are two goals with this exercise:
- To allow the dogs to meet and be tolerant of one another without exhibiting any bad behavior.
- To keep the meetings pleasant and friendly so the dogs learn to associate good, relaxed things with being together.
Watch the dogs’ body language.
Things are going well and you can proceed to the next step if you see:
Loose body movements and muscles
Relaxed open mouths
Play bows or other playful posturing
However, take caution if you see:
Stiff, slow body movements
Hair standing up on the back
Tensed mouth or teeth-baring
Growls
Prolonged staring
If you see any of these types of reactions, quickly lead the dogs away from each other and try to get them to focus on you. Then you can try a very brief introduction again, at a further distance. Only proceed to the next step when you see the dogs are tolerating each other.
Managing the New Dog in Your Home
Pick up all pet toys, food bowls, beds and the like before you bring the new dog into the house to prevent any tiffs over prized possessions.
You can return the resident dog’s toys to him in a few weeks, and give the new dogs some new toys of his own.
In the meantime, give the dogs toys only when they are in separate areas or their crates.
When you bring the new dog home, put your current pets in a separate area of your home; then, walk the new dog around your home on a leash to show him where he will sleep and eat, where the other pets sleep and eat, etc.
Establish boundaries in your home by using baby gates and closing off rooms and areas while all the pets acclimate to the new situation. This way they can see and get used to one another. Allow the resident dog to roam the house, while confining the new dog behind a barrier at first.
Keep the resident dog’s areas for sleeping and eating separate so he doesn’t feel his territory is being threatened.
Feed the dogs in separate areas, and pick up their food bowls after feeding time is done.
Keep the dogs confined in separate areas of your home any time you are away or can’t watch them.
While your dogs may enjoy each other as playmates, supervise their play to prevent them from getting over excited, which can lead to injury of one or both dogs.
Interrupt their play if one dog begins to bully or growl at the other, and separate them for a few minutes.
Praise them when they are playing well together.
Remember to devote plenty of time to each dog individually for both training and play. If one dog is much older or less energetic than the other, be sure you give him time and space to himself so he can rest and feel secure.
Puppies to Adult Dogs
Not all resident dogs will welcome a new puppy into the home.
Puppies are notorious for looking for attention from adult dogs (and everyone else), and so must be supervised when they are with other animals. Very young pups may not pick up on an adult dog’s body language that says he’s had enough playing.
A well-socialized adult dog may growl to tell the pup to back off, which is appropriate behavior that helps the puppy learn boundaries.
However, an adult dog with poor social skills may present a danger to the puppy, as he may only know to bite rather than growl. Thus, do not leave the dog and puppy alone together.
Respect the adult dog’s need for puppy-free quiet time, and be sure to spend one-on-one time with him as well.
Handle the puppy-to-dog introduction as you would between dogs.
Keep both animals leashed, carefully watch their body language, allow brief sniffs, and offer praise when they behave well.
Know When to Get Help
People keep household pets because they enjoy their antics and companionship. However, if your dog doesn’t get along with other pets, this only creates tension and disharmony in your home.
A qualified dog trainer such or Dog Behavioral Therapist can help resolve conflicts your dog may be having with other pets, and can provide ways to help you live in a peaceful, happy household of pets and people.
Not all resident dogs will welcome a new puppy into the home.
Puppies are notorious for looking for attention from adult dogs (and everyone else), and so must be supervised when they are with other animals. Very young pups may not pick up on an adult dog’s body language that says he’s had enough playing.
A well-socialized adult dog may growl to tell the pup to back off, which is appropriate behavior that helps the puppy learn boundaries.
However, an adult dog with poor social skills may present a danger to the puppy, as he may only know to bite rather than growl. Thus, do not leave the dog and puppy alone together.
Respect the adult dog’s need for puppy-free quiet time, and be sure to spend one-on-one time with him as well.
Handle the puppy-to-dog introduction as you would between dogs.
Keep both animals leashed, carefully watch their body language, allow brief sniffs, and offer praise when they behave well.
Know When to Get Help
People keep household pets because they enjoy their antics and companionship. However, if your dog doesn’t get along with other pets, this only creates tension and disharmony in your home.
A qualified dog trainer such or Dog Behavioral Therapist can help resolve conflicts your dog may be having with other pets, and can provide ways to help you live in a peaceful, happy household of pets and people.
What dog doesn't love a good bone?
Just make sure you are buying a good one!
Just make sure you are buying a good one!
From time to time it is ok to give your dog to chew a bone. The teeth plaque will be cleaned, your dog will have fun and will be mentally stimulated but there is a danger in those tasty bones!
Chewing is a natural instinct for dogs.
Bones are a great way to keep happy a dog who is bored!
Like beef femurs or marrow bones, "Recreation bones" are great for letting your dog activate their jaw but aren’t to be consumed.
Chewing is a favourite pastime for most dogs and giving them a bone will help to keep them both physically and mentally occupied.
Usually, chewing bones keeps your pup out of trouble and ensures that they are chewing on something healthy instead of your shoes.
Chewing is a natural instinct for dogs.
Bones are a great way to keep happy a dog who is bored!
Like beef femurs or marrow bones, "Recreation bones" are great for letting your dog activate their jaw but aren’t to be consumed.
Chewing is a favourite pastime for most dogs and giving them a bone will help to keep them both physically and mentally occupied.
Usually, chewing bones keeps your pup out of trouble and ensures that they are chewing on something healthy instead of your shoes.
Bones are a good source of minerals and other nutrients and help satisfy your dog.
Chewing stimulates saliva enzymes and helps prevent plaque buildup on teeth and possible gum disease.
Be sure to choose bones that contain marrow and connective tissues, as this will provide the most nutrition.
Bones contain a variety of minerals that can aid in skin and coat health, and the marrow and cartilage are good sources of collagen. Bones with connective tissues attached are especially beneficial for skin and coat health.
However, many veterinarians believe it just isn’t worth the risk of serious injuries to give your dog a bone. If you are considering giving him a bone, here are some rules to follow for his safety.
Chewing stimulates saliva enzymes and helps prevent plaque buildup on teeth and possible gum disease.
Be sure to choose bones that contain marrow and connective tissues, as this will provide the most nutrition.
Bones contain a variety of minerals that can aid in skin and coat health, and the marrow and cartilage are good sources of collagen. Bones with connective tissues attached are especially beneficial for skin and coat health.
However, many veterinarians believe it just isn’t worth the risk of serious injuries to give your dog a bone. If you are considering giving him a bone, here are some rules to follow for his safety.
Bones should only be given to dogs under supervision, and they should never be left alone with them!
Don’t give your dog the wrong kind of bone.
Ideal bones for dogs are round bones with bulges or lumps at either end, like leg bones. Many other types of bones are easier for dogs to break with their bite, and are more likely to cause problems..
No chicken drumsticks to dogs, nor wishbones.
Don’t give your dog the wrong kind of bone.
Ideal bones for dogs are round bones with bulges or lumps at either end, like leg bones. Many other types of bones are easier for dogs to break with their bite, and are more likely to cause problems..
No chicken drumsticks to dogs, nor wishbones.
Don't feed your dog with pork bones or rib bones.
They're more likely to splinter than other types of bones.
Don't give your dog fish bones!
They're more likely to splinter than other types of bones.
Don't give your dog fish bones!
Look for beef, elk, moose, or deer antlers and bones.
Knuckles
Hock bones
Kneecaps
Necks
Knuckles
Hock bones
Kneecaps
Necks
Don’t give you dog cooked bones of any kind.
Cooked bones, including those that come from table scraps, are not safe for dogs to eat.
They can easily break and splinter.
Cooked bones are not recommended under any circumstance.
Don’t let your dog chew any kind of bone into small pieces.
Don’t give your dog chunks of bone that can cause blockages.
Don’t give your dog a bone if he has stomach problems.
Don’t give your dog a bone to chew on if there’s another dog around.
Never let a dog bury a bone, nor dig them up later on to eat!
Old or buried bones grow bacteria on them that can cause infection.
Offer raw meat bones.
One disadvantage about raw bones is that they can carry bacteria like salmonella or e-coli and can spoil in a few days if not eaten. Dogs' strong stomach acid helps break bones down, and kills potential bacteria but it is the best that you always freeze the bone, and then defreeze it to the room temperature before you give it to your dog!
Take the bone away from your dog after 10-to-15 minutes, and put it in the refrigerator. Dispose of a bone after few days.
Never let your dog to eat the bone to its end because there is a danger that the dog will swallow when it becomes small.
Once the bone has been picked clean of all bits and yummy flavouring, then take the bone away and discard it.
Give your Ridgie a large bone!
Cooked bones, including those that come from table scraps, are not safe for dogs to eat.
They can easily break and splinter.
Cooked bones are not recommended under any circumstance.
Don’t let your dog chew any kind of bone into small pieces.
Don’t give your dog chunks of bone that can cause blockages.
Don’t give your dog a bone if he has stomach problems.
Don’t give your dog a bone to chew on if there’s another dog around.
Never let a dog bury a bone, nor dig them up later on to eat!
Old or buried bones grow bacteria on them that can cause infection.
Offer raw meat bones.
One disadvantage about raw bones is that they can carry bacteria like salmonella or e-coli and can spoil in a few days if not eaten. Dogs' strong stomach acid helps break bones down, and kills potential bacteria but it is the best that you always freeze the bone, and then defreeze it to the room temperature before you give it to your dog!
Take the bone away from your dog after 10-to-15 minutes, and put it in the refrigerator. Dispose of a bone after few days.
Never let your dog to eat the bone to its end because there is a danger that the dog will swallow when it becomes small.
Once the bone has been picked clean of all bits and yummy flavouring, then take the bone away and discard it.
Give your Ridgie a large bone!
Rhodesians have fast growing nails and this is something you should always take care about!
Your puppy has been taught to cut nails regularly in the kennel. (every 7 -10 days).
You need to work on ensuring that your dog feels comfortable with this task.
Go on your puppy paws as much as you can!
Hold it, press it, play with fingers and nails and do this on a daily basis.
Reward your dog with treat after every nail you cut!
You want them to associate nail trimming with something positive!
Form positive associations with this by rewarding your dog with treats and praise until allows you to clip her nails without getting nervous.
You can do this by gradually introducing your dog to the clippers or the grinder&trimmer and getting used to having her paws handled.
Our secret is also that it is good to cut nails while they are sleepy.
You must continue with by regular cutting to keep him and the reasons are the following:
Puppy will be accustomed!
Your dog will be accustomed and you will always be able to cut the nails without the stress and your dog running out of the room, panting in drama. It will be so much easier to both of you :)
It is definitely better to cut your dog's nails in sofa than to go to the Vet and to have a drama of life....
Please take this seriously!
The "quick" in the nails will not be extended
Too long nails are not good!
When dog nails get too long, it can lead to pain and other serious issues.
Over time, your dog might develop spine and posture problems (like sitting or standing oddly) due to frequently shifting weight because of overgrown nails.
Too-long nails can even lead to difficulty walking, lameness or serious injury; especially if they’re so long that they touch the ground.
In general, nails that are too long can limit your dog’s movements.
The pasterns that begin to bend if they are too long, and thus the statics of the whole body are disturbed, also too long nails for a long time may cause paw deformation.
Nails that are too long are at risk of being torn off, such as if your dog’s nail gets caught on a piece of carpeting or furniture.
This can result in an injury that might require veterinary care if it’s serious enough.
When your dog’s nails hit the floor constantly as dog walks, this can put more pressure on the nail bed. This pressure can cause discomfort that forces your dog to distribute her weight differently while she walks, which can affect the way her toe and paw joints are aligned.
BE COOL AND CONFIDENT IN PROCEDURE!
Ridgebacks are experts in reading our body language and energy.
If your dog reads your inner panic or stress, be sure that the dog be also bee stressed!
When you trim your dog’s nails, hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle.
Clip each nail carefully so that you don’t accidentally cut into the quick, which is the live part of the nail.
NEVER PUT THE WHOLE NAIL INTO CLIPPER!
CUT IT PIECE BY PIECE TILL YOU DO NOT GET CLOSE TO THE LIVE PART OF THE NAIL!
Ridgebacks are experts in reading our body language and energy.
If your dog reads your inner panic or stress, be sure that the dog be also bee stressed!
When you trim your dog’s nails, hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle.
Clip each nail carefully so that you don’t accidentally cut into the quick, which is the live part of the nail.
NEVER PUT THE WHOLE NAIL INTO CLIPPER!
CUT IT PIECE BY PIECE TILL YOU DO NOT GET CLOSE TO THE LIVE PART OF THE NAIL!
Otherwise your dog will fell the pain and then it is probably The END...
Finito! Good bye.....
Drama is ON forever probably if the dog starts to connect the pain with clippers!
This means stopping before you reach the pink part if your dog has white nails.
For black nails, stop clipping when you no longer see a whitish interior.
What if you cut too much and the nail starts to bleeding?
Your dog moved at the last second, you couldn't see what you were doing, you sneezed at the wrong time—whatever the reason, there's no need to panic if you cut the nail too short.
Simply press a pinch of styptic powder, corn starch or flour to the nail and apply pressure until it stops bleeding, and let the God help you that your dog does not get in drama!
You can also use the antibiotic powder TYROSUR which we recommend to have it at home for any need!
The perfect cutting range ends right before the blood supply.
Front paws are more likely to get overgrown nails and should cut more often that the rear paws!
You should always cut parallel to the bottom.
Front paws are more likely to get overgrown nails and should cut more often that the rear paws!
You should always cut parallel to the bottom.
WE RECOMMEND
Millers Forge Nail Clipper With Safety Stop
We looove the Millers....They are pretty silent and do not disturb our dogs, and they are easy to handle!
The blades are sharp and cut smoothly and easily.
Even with lots of use, the stainless-steel blades always held up great, maintaining their sharpness for many years. Millers are comfortable to hold, quiet to use, and easy to maneuver around each nail thanks to the size and thinness of the blades.
These nail clippers also have a quick-guard safety feature and safety lock for safe storage.
We looove the Millers....They are pretty silent and do not disturb our dogs, and they are easy to handle!
The blades are sharp and cut smoothly and easily.
Even with lots of use, the stainless-steel blades always held up great, maintaining their sharpness for many years. Millers are comfortable to hold, quiet to use, and easy to maneuver around each nail thanks to the size and thinness of the blades.
These nail clippers also have a quick-guard safety feature and safety lock for safe storage.
or
Dremel 7760 PawControl Cordless Pet nail Grinding kit
Nail grinders are great for dogs that don't love clippers as well as dogs with black nails since you can't see the quick.
THE MOST IMPORTANT IS TO TAKE THIS SERIOUSLY!
FIND OUT WHAT YOUR DOG LIKES MORE....NO MATTER IF IT IS THE GRINDER OR CLIPPERS, THE NAILS WILL HAVE TO BE SHORTEN EVERY MONTH.
MORE YOU WILL WORK ON THIS IN EARLY DAYS, THERE WILL BE LESS STRESS FOR ALL OF YOU!
YOU DO NOT DO DRAMA, JUST THE NAILS :)!
FIND OUT WHAT YOUR DOG LIKES MORE....NO MATTER IF IT IS THE GRINDER OR CLIPPERS, THE NAILS WILL HAVE TO BE SHORTEN EVERY MONTH.
MORE YOU WILL WORK ON THIS IN EARLY DAYS, THERE WILL BE LESS STRESS FOR ALL OF YOU!
YOU DO NOT DO DRAMA, JUST THE NAILS :)!
You have a show quality puppy and you are willing to attend dogshows?
The easiest way is to consult a breeder :) because the breeder has experience and you will not have to wander around and trying to do your best. That is a much longer and heavier way. We are always here to lead you and help you to enter dog show world!
The easiest way is to consult a breeder :) because the breeder has experience and you will not have to wander around and trying to do your best. That is a much longer and heavier way. We are always here to lead you and help you to enter dog show world!
SOCIALIZING
The most important thing is that you have continued with socializing your puppy!
We did a great base in our kennel, but it is up to you how much you will work with your dog in order to be socialized as best as it can! Once the puppy has been vaccinated, take her everywhere with you!
Take her to puppy socialization classes, aka puppy kindergarten, so she becomes used to meeting a lot of other dogs.
Expose the puppy to all possible situations and environments as well to lot of different dogs and people.
Walk on grass, cement, carpet, linoleum and rubber matting so different surfaces don’t freak your puppy out.
Encourage people to pet your puppy and gently look in her/his mouth so she/he gets used to being touched by strangers (who sometimes happen to be judges).
For males it is also important to play around testicles...Yes! Testicles will also be checked by the judge at the show, so for your male puppy it has to be normal that someone is touching it.
All of these experiences will teach the puppy to take everything in stride and give confidence.
Confidence is a key trait found in all top show dogs that gives them the winning stride and attitude that judges love to see.
Make sure that you become a member of your Kennel club and that you paid the membership!
When you will become a member, you will be able to attend the dogshow from the age of 3 months where you may enter your dog to a "Baby class".
Follow dogshow annoucements at your Kennel club official website and do the entry on time!
You can do it online or by sending the entry form via email!
Entry confirmation will be sent to your email!
Dogshow entries have deadlines which end pretty early so follow the dates so you don't miss the opportunity to enter! First deadline is always the cheapest!
The most important thing is that you have continued with socializing your puppy!
We did a great base in our kennel, but it is up to you how much you will work with your dog in order to be socialized as best as it can! Once the puppy has been vaccinated, take her everywhere with you!
Take her to puppy socialization classes, aka puppy kindergarten, so she becomes used to meeting a lot of other dogs.
Expose the puppy to all possible situations and environments as well to lot of different dogs and people.
Walk on grass, cement, carpet, linoleum and rubber matting so different surfaces don’t freak your puppy out.
Encourage people to pet your puppy and gently look in her/his mouth so she/he gets used to being touched by strangers (who sometimes happen to be judges).
For males it is also important to play around testicles...Yes! Testicles will also be checked by the judge at the show, so for your male puppy it has to be normal that someone is touching it.
All of these experiences will teach the puppy to take everything in stride and give confidence.
Confidence is a key trait found in all top show dogs that gives them the winning stride and attitude that judges love to see.
Make sure that you become a member of your Kennel club and that you paid the membership!
When you will become a member, you will be able to attend the dogshow from the age of 3 months where you may enter your dog to a "Baby class".
Follow dogshow annoucements at your Kennel club official website and do the entry on time!
You can do it online or by sending the entry form via email!
Entry confirmation will be sent to your email!
Dogshow entries have deadlines which end pretty early so follow the dates so you don't miss the opportunity to enter! First deadline is always the cheapest!
Click the logo for dogshows 2022
RING TRAINING
Try to find a "Ring training" for you and the puppy.
Training classes are instructed by experienced dog handlers.
Classes like this are invaluable to a novice exhibitor because the instructors will teach you all the basics of how to present a dog in the ring.
Your dog will also learn what’s expected from her when she competes at a dog show.
Try to find a "Ring training" for you and the puppy.
Training classes are instructed by experienced dog handlers.
Classes like this are invaluable to a novice exhibitor because the instructors will teach you all the basics of how to present a dog in the ring.
Your dog will also learn what’s expected from her when she competes at a dog show.
On "Ring training" you will learn:
Gait your dog around the ring
Stack the puppy for examination
Perform the basic patterns
(such as the triangle, the “L,” and the down and back)
And yes! Your puppy will socialize with "ring" conditions because lot of dogs attend ring training as well the instructor will examinate your dog, will go into puppy's mouth etc....
Gait your dog around the ring
Stack the puppy for examination
Perform the basic patterns
(such as the triangle, the “L,” and the down and back)
And yes! Your puppy will socialize with "ring" conditions because lot of dogs attend ring training as well the instructor will examinate your dog, will go into puppy's mouth etc....
Puppy owners usually learn the puppies to "sit down" to get a treat in early days!
We do not recommend this command if you plan to show your dog, because your puppy will sit in the ring! Teach the puppy command "stay" and 1 meal per day you can give your puppy from your hand :) with lot of motivation. Never end the practice if the puppy did wrong. This short trainings should be short (few minutes!) and ended when puppy did everything well!
We do not recommend this command if you plan to show your dog, because your puppy will sit in the ring! Teach the puppy command "stay" and 1 meal per day you can give your puppy from your hand :) with lot of motivation. Never end the practice if the puppy did wrong. This short trainings should be short (few minutes!) and ended when puppy did everything well!
HOW TO PREPARE FOR YOUR FIRST SHOW
At these early days, choose smaller national shows!
There are less people and dogs around so it is easier for your puppy to adapt but for you as well!
I remeber how I was lost and stressed on my first shows :)
As you would get ready for any big event, both of you need preparation time too.
Dog shows can be quite long, especially if it’s your first time.
Bring along a few items with you to make your dog more comfortable in this new environment.
WHAT DO YOU NEED AT THE DOGSHOW?
Entry confirmation
Printed or in your mobile phone!
Food and water bowl
Pet passport
Needed for enterance!
You will be checked by the official vet.
Your dog has to be vaccinated on schedule!
Show leash
Using a leash the same colour of your dog’s coat will help in not disrupting the overall balance.
Number clip
(every dog is given a catalogue number – which it has to wear)
Blanket or crate
Crate if the dog is used to stay in the crate - relaxing spot!
The tent you will probably buy later! It is like you have your own house on the show where dog is protected from the crowd and weather conditions and can relax.
WHERE TO STAY ON A SHOW SITE?
If you did not get info about the judging schedule and ring layout on the showground and your catalogue number via email, go to show office to get your number and the catalogue so you may find your ring and schedule.
Find the place where the dog can sit, eat and relax.
Your dog can have its own relaxing spot and get protection from the sun, rain and even the crowd as it may get too noisy.
Never leave your dog alone!
Dogs used to peace and quiet may find this conflicting and stressful.
This can impact their performance during the show. You can combat this by getting your dog used to noise by taking him outdoors initially.
Find your peaceful place from which you may follow the judging in your ring.
PLEASE WATCH OUT. NOT EVERY DOG BEHAVES WELL AND NOT EVERY OWNER IS RESPOSNIBLE, SO BE CAREFUL THAT SOME DOG DO NOT ATTACK YOURS!
There are less people and dogs around so it is easier for your puppy to adapt but for you as well!
I remeber how I was lost and stressed on my first shows :)
As you would get ready for any big event, both of you need preparation time too.
Dog shows can be quite long, especially if it’s your first time.
Bring along a few items with you to make your dog more comfortable in this new environment.
WHAT DO YOU NEED AT THE DOGSHOW?
Entry confirmation
Printed or in your mobile phone!
Food and water bowl
Pet passport
Needed for enterance!
You will be checked by the official vet.
Your dog has to be vaccinated on schedule!
Show leash
Using a leash the same colour of your dog’s coat will help in not disrupting the overall balance.
Number clip
(every dog is given a catalogue number – which it has to wear)
Blanket or crate
Crate if the dog is used to stay in the crate - relaxing spot!
The tent you will probably buy later! It is like you have your own house on the show where dog is protected from the crowd and weather conditions and can relax.
WHERE TO STAY ON A SHOW SITE?
If you did not get info about the judging schedule and ring layout on the showground and your catalogue number via email, go to show office to get your number and the catalogue so you may find your ring and schedule.
Find the place where the dog can sit, eat and relax.
Your dog can have its own relaxing spot and get protection from the sun, rain and even the crowd as it may get too noisy.
Never leave your dog alone!
Dogs used to peace and quiet may find this conflicting and stressful.
This can impact their performance during the show. You can combat this by getting your dog used to noise by taking him outdoors initially.
Find your peaceful place from which you may follow the judging in your ring.
PLEASE WATCH OUT. NOT EVERY DOG BEHAVES WELL AND NOT EVERY OWNER IS RESPOSNIBLE, SO BE CAREFUL THAT SOME DOG DO NOT ATTACK YOURS!
The most important of all is that your puppy feels comfortable at the dog show site and in the ring.
Do not force your puppy and do not show your puppy on every show.
Puppy has to be a puppy!
In baby, puppy and junior class playfulness and jumping are allowed so do not worry about if your puppy will be everywhere around you in the ring and if you do mistake as a handler :)
There is a plenty of time in front of you and you can wait with serious showing of your dog.
Try to make your puppy having fun in the ring, to start to love this kind of bonding with you and we are sure that with the time, you will have a
"Dogshow superstar!"
Do not force your puppy and do not show your puppy on every show.
Puppy has to be a puppy!
In baby, puppy and junior class playfulness and jumping are allowed so do not worry about if your puppy will be everywhere around you in the ring and if you do mistake as a handler :)
There is a plenty of time in front of you and you can wait with serious showing of your dog.
Try to make your puppy having fun in the ring, to start to love this kind of bonding with you and we are sure that with the time, you will have a
"Dogshow superstar!"
The ridge is most well-known feature of our loving breed.
That line of hair, running in reverse, really makes this breed stand out in a crowd.
It is a unique trait and it makes our dog so special.
Why do Rhodesian Ridgebacks have ridges?
That line of hair, running in reverse, really makes this breed stand out in a crowd.
It is a unique trait and it makes our dog so special.
Why do Rhodesian Ridgebacks have ridges?
Historic data on the Rhodesian Ridgeback shows that centuries and centuries before the Rhodesian Ridgeback was developed a similar breed was found in Africa.
One that was depicted in the burial caves as a showing of a chiefs prized possessions. This dog, which was shown alongside sheep and cattle was distinctive in that it had a ridge down its back.
One that was depicted in the burial caves as a showing of a chiefs prized possessions. This dog, which was shown alongside sheep and cattle was distinctive in that it had a ridge down its back.
By the 16th century, this breed was commonly known as the Hottentot dog and often found living with the Khoikhoi tribe in Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe.
It was a half-wild African dog with a ‘ridge’ as its most prominent feature.
The history of the breed and how Rhodesians their current look, find out on our website under
"History of the breed"
For those now wondering where the Hottentot dog got its ridge, unfortunately, we have no idea.
It could, however, just be an act of Mother Nature, or perhaps a gift from God. After all, there is a legend, and one that says the ridge is “where God sews them up (Rhodesian Ridgebacks) when he’s done stuffing them.”
It was a half-wild African dog with a ‘ridge’ as its most prominent feature.
The history of the breed and how Rhodesians their current look, find out on our website under
"History of the breed"
For those now wondering where the Hottentot dog got its ridge, unfortunately, we have no idea.
It could, however, just be an act of Mother Nature, or perhaps a gift from God. After all, there is a legend, and one that says the ridge is “where God sews them up (Rhodesian Ridgebacks) when he’s done stuffing them.”
 Correct ridge |  Faulty, undesirable ridge |
The breed standard calls for the ridge to be clearly defined, symmetrical, and made of hairs growing in the opposite direction compared to the rest of the coat. It should start behind the shoulders and taper off to a point as it reaches the hip area.
The ridge should also have two crowns or whorls which are directly opposite each other. Having only one or more than two is considered a serious breed fault.
A whorl, on a Rhodesian Ridgeback, should be a pattern of spirals or concentric circles in the fur.
It should be noted at this point that there is no reason why you should not have a Rhodesian Ridgeback with less than two whorls, or more than two whorls as a family pet.
Unless you are showing them, the whorls are of little to no importance and do not affect the Rhodesian Ridgeback in anything other than appearance.
A whorl, on a Rhodesian Ridgeback, should be a pattern of spirals or concentric circles in the fur.
It should be noted at this point that there is no reason why you should not have a Rhodesian Ridgeback with less than two whorls, or more than two whorls as a family pet.
Unless you are showing them, the whorls are of little to no importance and do not affect the Rhodesian Ridgeback in anything other than appearance.
How The Ridge Is Passed On?
In order for Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies to be born with a ridge, they need to have the ‘ridge gene’ passed down from their parents to them.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks can possess one or two copies of this gene.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks that carry two copies are known as homozygous, whilst those who carry the one are heterozygous.
In order for Rhodesian Ridgeback puppies to be born with a ridge, they need to have the ‘ridge gene’ passed down from their parents to them.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks can possess one or two copies of this gene.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks that carry two copies are known as homozygous, whilst those who carry the one are heterozygous.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks that carry two copies of the ‘ridge gene’ will always produce puppies with ridges. They, however, will not necessarily always pass both copies of the ‘ridge gene’ to their puppies.
Rather, there is a 50% chance that they will pass just one on. The only way to tell whether a Rhodesian Ridgeback has been born with just one or two ‘ridge genes’ is to have a genetic marker test done.
Rather, there is a 50% chance that they will pass just one on. The only way to tell whether a Rhodesian Ridgeback has been born with just one or two ‘ridge genes’ is to have a genetic marker test done.
Rhodesian Ridgebacks born with just one ‘ridge gene’ can but do not always pass this on.
This is not a problem if they are bred with a Rhodesian Ridgeback with two ‘ridge genes’ as one of those will definitely be passed on.
If both parents only have one ‘ridge gene’ there are several different outcomes.
These are:
1
Puppies who have two ‘ridge genes’ (one from each parent) and can definitely themselves pass the ridge on.
2
Puppies with a 50% chance of having a ridge, but only receiving one ‘ridge gene.’
3
Puppies with a 25% chance of having no ridge at all. These puppies have no ‘ridge gene’ and cannot produce puppies themselves with ridges.
Please note, Rhodesian Ridgebacks are born with their ridges so do not trust a breeder who say that they will grow later.
This is not a problem if they are bred with a Rhodesian Ridgeback with two ‘ridge genes’ as one of those will definitely be passed on.
If both parents only have one ‘ridge gene’ there are several different outcomes.
These are:
1
Puppies who have two ‘ridge genes’ (one from each parent) and can definitely themselves pass the ridge on.
2
Puppies with a 50% chance of having a ridge, but only receiving one ‘ridge gene.’
3
Puppies with a 25% chance of having no ridge at all. These puppies have no ‘ridge gene’ and cannot produce puppies themselves with ridges.
Please note, Rhodesian Ridgebacks are born with their ridges so do not trust a breeder who say that they will grow later.
HOW TO CHECK IF YOUR BREEDER IS RESPONSIBLE!?
Every day new kennels are showing up but it seems people go into breeding for fun or profit and we find this very dangerous for our loving breed as well for the future owners.
Lot of these new breeders just do breeding exam with their dog according to the law, without any health test, and some sell puppies without Pedigree.
As a result, the puppies bred by such a breeders are more likely to suffer from common, preventable, infectious diseases and/or painful or chronic inherited conditions.
They may also have shorter lifespans.
Breeding is not a joke.
Reputable breeders have one goal: To produce healthy, and physically and behaviorally stable dogs that meet the standard – the written description of the breed.
But still, breeders can’t control everything that happens with puppies. Nature can be cruel, and sometimes unforeseen health issues develop in the most carefully contemplated breeding.
What breeders can do is ensure that the dogs in their breeding programs are as healthy as possible.
If you are buying a Rhodesian Ridgeback, inform yourself about available kennels in your country and buy a puppy from the reputable breeder.
Don't call first phone number when you see there is an AD for the litter on some website or social media where litters can be advertised.
When buying a dog, think about the fact that this dog is going to be your company for the next decade.
Do not buy from a breeder who does not ask you questions about whether your lifestyle and home are suitable for their puppy. A good breeder will want to ensure their puppy is going to a good home and they will have waiting lists and questionnaires for future owners!
Responsible breeders will do everything to protect the breed as well the future owners.
When choosing a breeder, it's important to be able to recognize the warning signs that they do not care about the health and welfare of your future dog.
Do not trust a breeder who says you can take a puppy from the first meeting.
The breeder should be asking you to visit multiple times, and there always has to be a buying procedure.
Buy a dog with the Pedigree!
(about why is the Pedigree important- you may find article on our Blog. Take your time and read it!)
Ask the breeder if is a member of HKS and FCI.
There are also many questions you should ask the breeder in order to find out is the breeder responsible:
1
How old are the puppies?
If the breeder let you to visit puppies in age younger than 3 weeks, this breeder is not responsible.
2
May I see the mother of the litter and the Sire if possible?
You won’t always be able to visit the puppy with its dad but it is essential that you see it with its mum. Mum has to be in good condition, healthy and looking good. You should also ask and look after her character. If possible, ask also to meet the father of the litter.
3
How old is the mother and how many litters did she have?
The mother must not have been mated before 24 months of age. In our kennel our bitches have maximum 2 litters in their life so bitch may recover and get back into balance after babies.
4
May I see the litter?
You will be able to see whether they are all of similar size, character and health. You can also see how they interact with other dogs and you.
5
What social experiences have the puppies had so far?
Responsible breeders ensure that every puppy has had interaction with people, situations and their puppy siblings before they are ready to be sold. They may also have begun to teach them simple commands and socialize puppies with sounds, materials, animals, shapes, machines etc.
6
Do you have a diet sheet or feeding plan for puppies to take away?
Responsible breeders keep a diet sheet that you can take home with you, letting you know when to feed them and how much.
7
When am I allowed to take the puppy home?
Responsible breeders will not allow you to take a puppy home before 8 weeks. Puppies should be dewormed and vaccinated twice. You will manage the third vaccination at your vet, and before that you should keep your puppy in quarantine upon takeover. A responsible breeder will follow if you have vaccinated your puppy!
8
Do you have the health certificates of the parents of the litter?
By checking for health certificates, you’ll be able to see if there are any common problems that you might need to look out for.
You should ask for the x-ray results rated by the Veterinary University of Zagreb and genetic tests on the hereditary diseases.
In Croatia only x/ray of the hips is required by the law but this is definitely not enough.
In 21 century we are able to control much more, as elbows, shoulders, spine and we can control hereditary diseases like epilepsy, degerenative myleopathy, heamophilia, EOAD, etc....
9
Is the puppy registered at the Kennel club (HKS)?
The breeder should have registered the puppies with the Kennel Club and be able to provide a certificate to state that they are, indeed, pedigree. If the application is still pending, it might be worth asking to see the certificate of the mum and dad.
10
Are you able to get references from any previous puppy buyers?
You might be able to contact previous buyers and visit their dogs. This way you can get a second opinion about the breeder and discuss openly whether their dog is everything they hoped for.
11
Will there be a contract of sale?
All reputable breeders should provide you with a contract of sale. This will state the responsibilities of both you and the owner and as well as an official document for your records.
12
Tell me everything about your dogs bloodline!
Ask if the breeder has information about the breed line. For example, ask how long most dogs in the breed line have lived and what they typically die from. Responsible breeder know everything about their line and dogs in the Pedigree.
13
Do you offer support?
Top breeders are passionate about their puppies and adamant about finding them the best homes. In fact, they usually want to interview you more than you want to interview them. Many want to track the lives of their puppies and are willing to answer questions and help you navigate small issues as you raise the dog.
14
What do you provide with the puppy?
Responsible breeder should provide the following:
Contract
Take-over document of the puppy
FCI Pedigree of a puppy
Europasspot / The dog’s International vaccination card
Copies of parents documents and certificates (pedigree, health certificates, genetic tests, Champion certificates)
Information about whole the litter, its development, and possible problems which occurred in the litter
Information about the parents and the litters which they come from, and possible problems which occurred with them or in the litter they come from
Puppy aptitude test result of your puppy
Breed standard of Rhodesian Ridgeback
Information about following vaccinations and parasite disposal of the puppy
Information about the puppy’s training and nutrition, with the menu and the schedule of feeding
15
Can the puppy be returned to a breeder if any problems?
A responsible breeder will take back and rehome a puppy should there be any problems, and this will be also written in the contract.
16
If you’d like to breed from the puppy once they are old enough – will there be any breeding restrictions in the contract?
Some breeders will place restrictions on whether the puppy will be able to be bred from because they care about their bloodline.
It’s always best to check before signing a contract.
17
May I see how the puppies are kept?
The breeder should want to show you where the dogs are kept, where they sleep and where the puppies were born
You should be able to see the whelping box, comfortable bedding, food and clean water.
The breeder should have a safe and clean home for all their dogs – both puppies and mum.
Responsible breeder will never keep a puppies on slippery floors and will always protect puppies from stairs etc.
18
What is the price of a puppy?
Prices at the responsible breeders are much higher from breeders that breed just for fun or for profit.
19
Tell me more about the breed!
Do not buy from a breeder who appears to have poor knowledge about the breed. A responsible breeder will ask you and test you how much do you know about the breed and are you well informed.
20
May I ask to show me championship certificates and achievements of your dogs?
Responsible and reputable breeders have a dogshow history with dogs from the line.
Dogs used in breeding are mostly champions or candidates for championships. The purpose of dog shows is to obtain independent judgment from a number of qualified judges that a dog is a good representative of the breed, as measured by the written breed standard.
And one more important detail!
A responsible breeder will never let you to choose the puppy!
A responsible breeder is focused on making a perfect match (puppy + owner), not making a sale.
When buying a puppy, prepare yourself!
The responsible breeder will ask questions and ask you again, maybe you will feel tortured a bit :P, but you can also ask back these questions!
If your breeder gives poor answers to all these questions we wrote,
just SKIP that breeder!
Every day new kennels are showing up but it seems people go into breeding for fun or profit and we find this very dangerous for our loving breed as well for the future owners.
Lot of these new breeders just do breeding exam with their dog according to the law, without any health test, and some sell puppies without Pedigree.
As a result, the puppies bred by such a breeders are more likely to suffer from common, preventable, infectious diseases and/or painful or chronic inherited conditions.
They may also have shorter lifespans.
Breeding is not a joke.
Reputable breeders have one goal: To produce healthy, and physically and behaviorally stable dogs that meet the standard – the written description of the breed.
But still, breeders can’t control everything that happens with puppies. Nature can be cruel, and sometimes unforeseen health issues develop in the most carefully contemplated breeding.
What breeders can do is ensure that the dogs in their breeding programs are as healthy as possible.
If you are buying a Rhodesian Ridgeback, inform yourself about available kennels in your country and buy a puppy from the reputable breeder.
Don't call first phone number when you see there is an AD for the litter on some website or social media where litters can be advertised.
When buying a dog, think about the fact that this dog is going to be your company for the next decade.
Do not buy from a breeder who does not ask you questions about whether your lifestyle and home are suitable for their puppy. A good breeder will want to ensure their puppy is going to a good home and they will have waiting lists and questionnaires for future owners!
Responsible breeders will do everything to protect the breed as well the future owners.
When choosing a breeder, it's important to be able to recognize the warning signs that they do not care about the health and welfare of your future dog.
Do not trust a breeder who says you can take a puppy from the first meeting.
The breeder should be asking you to visit multiple times, and there always has to be a buying procedure.
Buy a dog with the Pedigree!
(about why is the Pedigree important- you may find article on our Blog. Take your time and read it!)
Ask the breeder if is a member of HKS and FCI.
There are also many questions you should ask the breeder in order to find out is the breeder responsible:
1
How old are the puppies?
If the breeder let you to visit puppies in age younger than 3 weeks, this breeder is not responsible.
2
May I see the mother of the litter and the Sire if possible?
You won’t always be able to visit the puppy with its dad but it is essential that you see it with its mum. Mum has to be in good condition, healthy and looking good. You should also ask and look after her character. If possible, ask also to meet the father of the litter.
3
How old is the mother and how many litters did she have?
The mother must not have been mated before 24 months of age. In our kennel our bitches have maximum 2 litters in their life so bitch may recover and get back into balance after babies.
4
May I see the litter?
You will be able to see whether they are all of similar size, character and health. You can also see how they interact with other dogs and you.
5
What social experiences have the puppies had so far?
Responsible breeders ensure that every puppy has had interaction with people, situations and their puppy siblings before they are ready to be sold. They may also have begun to teach them simple commands and socialize puppies with sounds, materials, animals, shapes, machines etc.
6
Do you have a diet sheet or feeding plan for puppies to take away?
Responsible breeders keep a diet sheet that you can take home with you, letting you know when to feed them and how much.
7
When am I allowed to take the puppy home?
Responsible breeders will not allow you to take a puppy home before 8 weeks. Puppies should be dewormed and vaccinated twice. You will manage the third vaccination at your vet, and before that you should keep your puppy in quarantine upon takeover. A responsible breeder will follow if you have vaccinated your puppy!
8
Do you have the health certificates of the parents of the litter?
By checking for health certificates, you’ll be able to see if there are any common problems that you might need to look out for.
You should ask for the x-ray results rated by the Veterinary University of Zagreb and genetic tests on the hereditary diseases.
In Croatia only x/ray of the hips is required by the law but this is definitely not enough.
In 21 century we are able to control much more, as elbows, shoulders, spine and we can control hereditary diseases like epilepsy, degerenative myleopathy, heamophilia, EOAD, etc....
9
Is the puppy registered at the Kennel club (HKS)?
The breeder should have registered the puppies with the Kennel Club and be able to provide a certificate to state that they are, indeed, pedigree. If the application is still pending, it might be worth asking to see the certificate of the mum and dad.
10
Are you able to get references from any previous puppy buyers?
You might be able to contact previous buyers and visit their dogs. This way you can get a second opinion about the breeder and discuss openly whether their dog is everything they hoped for.
11
Will there be a contract of sale?
All reputable breeders should provide you with a contract of sale. This will state the responsibilities of both you and the owner and as well as an official document for your records.
12
Tell me everything about your dogs bloodline!
Ask if the breeder has information about the breed line. For example, ask how long most dogs in the breed line have lived and what they typically die from. Responsible breeder know everything about their line and dogs in the Pedigree.
13
Do you offer support?
Top breeders are passionate about their puppies and adamant about finding them the best homes. In fact, they usually want to interview you more than you want to interview them. Many want to track the lives of their puppies and are willing to answer questions and help you navigate small issues as you raise the dog.
14
What do you provide with the puppy?
Responsible breeder should provide the following:
Contract
Take-over document of the puppy
FCI Pedigree of a puppy
Europasspot / The dog’s International vaccination card
Copies of parents documents and certificates (pedigree, health certificates, genetic tests, Champion certificates)
Information about whole the litter, its development, and possible problems which occurred in the litter
Information about the parents and the litters which they come from, and possible problems which occurred with them or in the litter they come from
Puppy aptitude test result of your puppy
Breed standard of Rhodesian Ridgeback
Information about following vaccinations and parasite disposal of the puppy
Information about the puppy’s training and nutrition, with the menu and the schedule of feeding
15
Can the puppy be returned to a breeder if any problems?
A responsible breeder will take back and rehome a puppy should there be any problems, and this will be also written in the contract.
16
If you’d like to breed from the puppy once they are old enough – will there be any breeding restrictions in the contract?
Some breeders will place restrictions on whether the puppy will be able to be bred from because they care about their bloodline.
It’s always best to check before signing a contract.
17
May I see how the puppies are kept?
The breeder should want to show you where the dogs are kept, where they sleep and where the puppies were born
You should be able to see the whelping box, comfortable bedding, food and clean water.
The breeder should have a safe and clean home for all their dogs – both puppies and mum.
Responsible breeder will never keep a puppies on slippery floors and will always protect puppies from stairs etc.
18
What is the price of a puppy?
Prices at the responsible breeders are much higher from breeders that breed just for fun or for profit.
19
Tell me more about the breed!
Do not buy from a breeder who appears to have poor knowledge about the breed. A responsible breeder will ask you and test you how much do you know about the breed and are you well informed.
20
May I ask to show me championship certificates and achievements of your dogs?
Responsible and reputable breeders have a dogshow history with dogs from the line.
Dogs used in breeding are mostly champions or candidates for championships. The purpose of dog shows is to obtain independent judgment from a number of qualified judges that a dog is a good representative of the breed, as measured by the written breed standard.
And one more important detail!
A responsible breeder will never let you to choose the puppy!
A responsible breeder is focused on making a perfect match (puppy + owner), not making a sale.
When buying a puppy, prepare yourself!
The responsible breeder will ask questions and ask you again, maybe you will feel tortured a bit :P, but you can also ask back these questions!
If your breeder gives poor answers to all these questions we wrote,
just SKIP that breeder!
The importance of socialization and early training in our puppies during the crucial imprinting stage between 8 and 18 weeks of age.
This is a time when puppies are most open to learning and accepting new situations and experiences.
We have already started with intense socialization in our kennel but every owner should continue with all possible activities to socialize the puppy as much as possible..
Puppy schools for puppies of this age are to expose them to a variety of people (males, females, tall, short, lanky, round, glasses, beards, with walking sticks, in a wheelchair etc) and a variety of dogs (large, small, fluffy, smooth, timid and boisterous) to learn how to interact appropriately with them in a safe and controlled environment.
This is how your puppy is developing into a balanced adult who is confident and friendly to people and dogs, and can help to prevent later fear and aggressive responses.
It is important to continue socializing your dog to as many sights, sounds, and smells as possible throughout adolescence, but this early imprinting period is seen as perhaps the most important.
Attending a professional puppy school is absolutely crucial, regardless of your training expertise or having other dogs at home.
This is a time when puppies are most open to learning and accepting new situations and experiences.
We have already started with intense socialization in our kennel but every owner should continue with all possible activities to socialize the puppy as much as possible..
Puppy schools for puppies of this age are to expose them to a variety of people (males, females, tall, short, lanky, round, glasses, beards, with walking sticks, in a wheelchair etc) and a variety of dogs (large, small, fluffy, smooth, timid and boisterous) to learn how to interact appropriately with them in a safe and controlled environment.
This is how your puppy is developing into a balanced adult who is confident and friendly to people and dogs, and can help to prevent later fear and aggressive responses.
It is important to continue socializing your dog to as many sights, sounds, and smells as possible throughout adolescence, but this early imprinting period is seen as perhaps the most important.
Attending a professional puppy school is absolutely crucial, regardless of your training expertise or having other dogs at home.
Good puppy schools will be closely supervised by a professional trainer with expertise in early canine behaviour who will focus on encouraging and rewarding the right behaviours with praise, treats or games. They can identify appropriate play versus bullying or intimidation and ensure that these early experiences are positive for all of the puppies involved. Unfortunately, an instructor without this knowledge and experience can possibly do more harm than good.
Puppy schools are not only for puppies, it will help you to be a true leader!
Builds Communication and Trust
Puppy training helps you to establish a line of communication between you and your puppy because it gives you the tools to ask your puppy to perform the desired behavior and teach your puppy how to correctly respond.
Adding puppy training into your daily schedule affords you a bonding experience like no other.
During puppy training sessions your pup learns to look to you as their leader and begins to trust and respect your guidance.
Puppy training helps you to establish a line of communication between you and your puppy because it gives you the tools to ask your puppy to perform the desired behavior and teach your puppy how to correctly respond.
Adding puppy training into your daily schedule affords you a bonding experience like no other.
During puppy training sessions your pup learns to look to you as their leader and begins to trust and respect your guidance.
Puppy school also helps to educate the guardians on how to set the puppy up with good manners from a young age.
Even seasoned dog owners can benefit from reminders of timely and useful puppy tips for toilet training, jumping up, walking nicely on lead, chewing, and teething issues etc.
You will learn how to read your puppy’s body language and interactions with other dogs.
A qualified and experienced instructor will take the time to point out the differences between appropriate play, dominant play, bullying, and unacceptable play.
Remember that dogs communicate mainly through posturing, so understanding when your puppy is playing too rough or is feeling intimidated will be useful information for you throughout the dog’s life.
Puppy training provides you the skills to communicate with your puppy.
They are particularly important when it comes to effectively giving your puppy a command in different environments and situations.
Knowing basic obedience commands, especially Come, in outdoor off-leash situations can protect your pup from confrontations with other dogs and wildlife.
Even seasoned dog owners can benefit from reminders of timely and useful puppy tips for toilet training, jumping up, walking nicely on lead, chewing, and teething issues etc.
You will learn how to read your puppy’s body language and interactions with other dogs.
A qualified and experienced instructor will take the time to point out the differences between appropriate play, dominant play, bullying, and unacceptable play.
Remember that dogs communicate mainly through posturing, so understanding when your puppy is playing too rough or is feeling intimidated will be useful information for you throughout the dog’s life.
Puppy training provides you the skills to communicate with your puppy.
They are particularly important when it comes to effectively giving your puppy a command in different environments and situations.
Knowing basic obedience commands, especially Come, in outdoor off-leash situations can protect your pup from confrontations with other dogs and wildlife.
FOOD
You need to establish feeding rythm!
The puppy should always be fed in the same place and fresh water should always be available, except during the night.
Of course, the water must be in a place that can be reached at any time during the day and evening.
In our kennel feeding schedule was always on exact time, so you will get info when to feed your puppy.
Create a feeding routine by feeding the puppy at the same times each day and in the same location.
The puppy must have 4 meals at the beginning.
When puppy eats, even if he hasn't eaten to the end, take a bowl of food and don't leave it available to the puppy.
Make sure the food place is in a quieter corner of your home. Get a floor covering that is easy to care for, to make cleaning easier.
Of course, the water must be in a place that can be reached at any time during the day and evening.
In our kennel feeding schedule was always on exact time, so you will get info when to feed your puppy.
Create a feeding routine by feeding the puppy at the same times each day and in the same location.
The puppy must have 4 meals at the beginning.
When puppy eats, even if he hasn't eaten to the end, take a bowl of food and don't leave it available to the puppy.
Make sure the food place is in a quieter corner of your home. Get a floor covering that is easy to care for, to make cleaning easier.
SLEEPING PLACE
First days you should sleep beside your puppy.
When it’s finally time to go to bed, give your puppy another chance to relax outdoors and defecate after which you should go to bed with your puppy.
The best place is where it is quiet and make sure to leave a blanket with smells of puppy's mum and siblings on the sleeping place.
First days sleep beside your puppy.
He/her is away from siblings and needs contact.
Later it would be good that puppy has 2 sleeping places, one during the day and one at night (including the best reclining pillow.
Do not put your dog's place at the entrance to the house or in another room because contact with family is extremely important to them.
The best place is where it is quiet and make sure to leave a blanket with smells of puppy's mum and siblings on the sleeping place.
First days sleep beside your puppy.
He/her is away from siblings and needs contact.
Later it would be good that puppy has 2 sleeping places, one during the day and one at night (including the best reclining pillow.
Do not put your dog's place at the entrance to the house or in another room because contact with family is extremely important to them.
PEE & POO BOMBS
Consistency is the name of the game.
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Here we are back to the feeding schedule :)
Why is the scedule so important?
Well, sticking to a schedule helps puppy to learn what to expect and can also help you anticipate his need to go potty.
Potty training can begin immediately when you bring your puppy home. We already started with this at the kennel so you just have to continue to have great results :)
Consistency is the name of the game.
Taking puppy out right after mealtime and before and after naptime or play can help reduce the chance of accidents in the house.
If you have successfully brought the puppy to the place of urination or poo and when he does it outside, praise him very loudly (you have to feel stupid and funny when you do this, but it is a great stimulus for dogs).
They will quickly realize that this is the right place to perform urination!
But still don’t expect too much.
Although you will teach your puppy to defecate outside in an average of 2-3 weeks, the puppy is only able to consciously control his bladder and intestines after about 6 months, satisfy his instincts and empty himself in a controlled manner.
Even then, he/she fails to hold urine or feces for too long.
Pay attention to the puppy's body language, after he/she wakes up you have to
TAKE THE PUPPY OUT IMMEDIATELY if he is looking restless, etc.
The better you observe the puppy, the better you can interpret the signs.
If puppy poops or pees in the house, don't scold the dog it is your fault!
Methods of hitting the newspaper on or pushing the muzzle in the urine are absolute and unfounded nonsense!
You will avoid this if you are focused and if you catch him quickly enough and take him outside, but still be careful to calmly take him/her to the emergency place so that you do not create stress for him.
However, if it’s too late, don’t dramatize too much, clean the space thoroughly and make sure there are no odors.
It is good to coat such a place with vinegar after cleaning, because otherwise the puppy will smell later and this will stimulate him to get wet again in this place.
With patience and empathy, you can teach your puppy to be clean and tidy within a reasonable time.
Why is the scedule so important?
Well, sticking to a schedule helps puppy to learn what to expect and can also help you anticipate his need to go potty.
Potty training can begin immediately when you bring your puppy home. We already started with this at the kennel so you just have to continue to have great results :)
Consistency is the name of the game.
Taking puppy out right after mealtime and before and after naptime or play can help reduce the chance of accidents in the house.
If you have successfully brought the puppy to the place of urination or poo and when he does it outside, praise him very loudly (you have to feel stupid and funny when you do this, but it is a great stimulus for dogs).
They will quickly realize that this is the right place to perform urination!
But still don’t expect too much.
Although you will teach your puppy to defecate outside in an average of 2-3 weeks, the puppy is only able to consciously control his bladder and intestines after about 6 months, satisfy his instincts and empty himself in a controlled manner.
Even then, he/she fails to hold urine or feces for too long.
Pay attention to the puppy's body language, after he/she wakes up you have to
TAKE THE PUPPY OUT IMMEDIATELY if he is looking restless, etc.
The better you observe the puppy, the better you can interpret the signs.
If puppy poops or pees in the house, don't scold the dog it is your fault!
Methods of hitting the newspaper on or pushing the muzzle in the urine are absolute and unfounded nonsense!
You will avoid this if you are focused and if you catch him quickly enough and take him outside, but still be careful to calmly take him/her to the emergency place so that you do not create stress for him.
However, if it’s too late, don’t dramatize too much, clean the space thoroughly and make sure there are no odors.
It is good to coat such a place with vinegar after cleaning, because otherwise the puppy will smell later and this will stimulate him to get wet again in this place.
With patience and empathy, you can teach your puppy to be clean and tidy within a reasonable time.
CHEWING AND EATING EVERYTHING THEY FIND
Puppies should never be bored!
Puppies learn about their environment by putting things in their mouths.
If puppy tries to chew on shoes or furniture, redirect him by giving him a toy instead.
If you discover he’s chewed something he shouldn’t have after the fact, don’t scold him.
He won’t understand why you’re upset.
If you do catch him in the act, give him a firm “No,” and redirect him with a toy or game.
Take enough time to play with the puppy.
Offer them different toys, but of course, everything should be non-toxic and made so that nothing can be swallowed. Puppy's deciduous teeth are as sharp as a needle and leave a mark everywhere, so probably you will be pierced by puppy's teeth :).
As a result, the child-dog relationship could quickly deteriorate. So, be careful with that!
By changing teeth between 3 and 6 months this problem is largely solved.
Note: The game is started by you and ends by you, and then you collect the items again.
If puppy tries to chew on shoes or furniture, redirect him by giving him a toy instead.
If you discover he’s chewed something he shouldn’t have after the fact, don’t scold him.
He won’t understand why you’re upset.
If you do catch him in the act, give him a firm “No,” and redirect him with a toy or game.
Take enough time to play with the puppy.
Offer them different toys, but of course, everything should be non-toxic and made so that nothing can be swallowed. Puppy's deciduous teeth are as sharp as a needle and leave a mark everywhere, so probably you will be pierced by puppy's teeth :).
As a result, the child-dog relationship could quickly deteriorate. So, be careful with that!
By changing teeth between 3 and 6 months this problem is largely solved.
Note: The game is started by you and ends by you, and then you collect the items again.
PUPPY QUARANTINE
Do not risk puppy's life!
Avoid socializing with other dogs in public places until puppy had all vaccinations.
At the time you took over your puppy, it has not been vaccinated yet for the 3rd time so is not protected.
There are many diseases which can kill your puppy if infected.
Once your puppy is vaccinated and veterinarian gives the green light, you can begin socializing him with other dogs as well. Socialization and training are essential in helping your puppy become a well-mannered dog.
At the time you took over your puppy, it has not been vaccinated yet for the 3rd time so is not protected.
There are many diseases which can kill your puppy if infected.
Once your puppy is vaccinated and veterinarian gives the green light, you can begin socializing him with other dogs as well. Socialization and training are essential in helping your puppy become a well-mannered dog.
HOME ALONE TRAINING
Every time a minute longer!
It’s a good idea to start practicing leaving him alone after your puppy adopts to new home. You can start with this after aprox 2 weeks.
Before putting him in his crate or not (if you do not have a crate), take him out to potty.
Then you can put him in his crate and leave the house, returning after just a few minutes.
He may bark and whine, but as you practice and build up the amount of time he’s alone, he’ll learn that you’ll come back.
Before putting him in his crate or not (if you do not have a crate), take him out to potty.
Then you can put him in his crate and leave the house, returning after just a few minutes.
He may bark and whine, but as you practice and build up the amount of time he’s alone, he’ll learn that you’ll come back.
DRIVING HOME
How to prepare for the trip? From the kennel to the new home there are some things you should know and pay attention to!
In general, you should fully adapt to the puppy on the trip.
With driver, there should always be another person to look after the puppy.
A puppy on the way to a new home may be in someone’s lap.
It is also important to provide enough space for the puppy.
You should also have, old towels or household towels, wet towels for dogs, etc. due to possible vomiting or urination of the puppy. Have it on mind that vomiting or urination can occur especially on long travel. Always have a leash with you while driving. If an accident or malfunction happens,
it often happens that dogs run around after an accident, to be injured or run away.
Later after a period the acclimatization dog should learn to sit in the space provided in the vehicle.
Ideally, of course, in the trunk of a caravan or better yet, in a box/cage for dogs.
Otherwise, in the event of an accident, keep in mind that the car has a live cannonball, so it is necessary to tie the dog with dog belts or drive it in a cage.
With driver, there should always be another person to look after the puppy.
A puppy on the way to a new home may be in someone’s lap.
It is also important to provide enough space for the puppy.
You should also have, old towels or household towels, wet towels for dogs, etc. due to possible vomiting or urination of the puppy. Have it on mind that vomiting or urination can occur especially on long travel. Always have a leash with you while driving. If an accident or malfunction happens,
it often happens that dogs run around after an accident, to be injured or run away.
Later after a period the acclimatization dog should learn to sit in the space provided in the vehicle.
Ideally, of course, in the trunk of a caravan or better yet, in a box/cage for dogs.
Otherwise, in the event of an accident, keep in mind that the car has a live cannonball, so it is necessary to tie the dog with dog belts or drive it in a cage.
PEE & POO BREAK
Do not choose a highway or specific rest areas with lot of parking places beside gas stations!
After aprox 2 hours of driving at the latest, you should let the baby dog out of the car stretch your legs and to make poo and pee. If the puppy sleeps, do not wake him/her up...maybe will sleep during all trip what is the best solution!
Don’t choose a highway or a specific rest area.
Experience shows that the area is heavily polluted in such places.
People throw everything, there is garbage and dangerous objects in rest areas and gas stations and most importantly, in such places there is a possibility of infection because others dog owners take breaks therewith their dogs.
That can represent danger to the puppy because at the time of driving home it has not yet been vaccinated to the end and is not fully protected.
It is best to look for a quiet meadow where there are no cattle.
Offer to the dog water and allow a little movement on the leash.
DO NOT LET YOUR PUPPY OFF THE LEASH!
The puppy could be surprised of something and scared and since the connection with you it has not yet been established, puppy could escape and something could happen.
Although we have taught the puppies on a leash, they are still not quite used to it so it would be good to allow the puppy to just choose where he/she will walk, Do not pull and drag the puppy by force because you will lead the puppy into stress,
Don’t choose a highway or a specific rest area.
Experience shows that the area is heavily polluted in such places.
People throw everything, there is garbage and dangerous objects in rest areas and gas stations and most importantly, in such places there is a possibility of infection because others dog owners take breaks therewith their dogs.
That can represent danger to the puppy because at the time of driving home it has not yet been vaccinated to the end and is not fully protected.
It is best to look for a quiet meadow where there are no cattle.
Offer to the dog water and allow a little movement on the leash.
DO NOT LET YOUR PUPPY OFF THE LEASH!
The puppy could be surprised of something and scared and since the connection with you it has not yet been established, puppy could escape and something could happen.
Although we have taught the puppies on a leash, they are still not quite used to it so it would be good to allow the puppy to just choose where he/she will walk, Do not pull and drag the puppy by force because you will lead the puppy into stress,
ON THE WAY HOME DO NOT GIVE YOUR PUPPY FOOD
You and the puppy really do not need puke all over your car! It should be a bad experience for the puppy!
In no case do not give the puppy food while driving, as it does not vomit. It it would be a negative experience that the dog will later always associate with driving in car so it can happen your dog may no longer want to get in the car.
Comfort your puppy
If the puppy cries in the car, be calm and comfort him with physical contact/cuddle.
You are his pack now and puppy will quickly learn that you are now there for him/her.
In addition, you also got a blanket with the scents of the litter, which should make puppy calm <3
You are his pack now and puppy will quickly learn that you are now there for him/her.
In addition, you also got a blanket with the scents of the litter, which should make puppy calm <3
FIRST DAY IN A NEW HOME
Give your puppy time to get know you and new environment!
Puppy food for frst weeks you will get from us, as well the collar and leash, but you have to prepare yourself for puppy arrival so you have to buy water and food bowls, some other toys and treats.
It is advisable to be constantly with the puppy first few days and give the young four-legged friend a lot of love, attention and free time.
Call the puppy by name, cuddle and play with him/her, let the puppy eat treats from your hand.
You build trust this way and enable the puppy to feel comfortable in your company, and these are the foundations for future upbringing.
Puppies are curious, so encourage yours to explore his new home. Show him around the places and spaces where he’ll be able to spend his time.
It is advisable to be constantly with the puppy first few days and give the young four-legged friend a lot of love, attention and free time.
Call the puppy by name, cuddle and play with him/her, let the puppy eat treats from your hand.
You build trust this way and enable the puppy to feel comfortable in your company, and these are the foundations for future upbringing.
Puppies are curious, so encourage yours to explore his new home. Show him around the places and spaces where he’ll be able to spend his time.
Puppy and the children in first days
Don't let the puppy to be overwhelmed by a storm of impressions and having too many stimuli.
To children must be explained that the dog is still a baby who needs rest and sleep (15-18 hours daily) to develop well. Your kids will probably be overexcited so please explain that they do not scream and that they do not go to much into puppy's space in first days. If the puppy sleeps, then let the puppy sleep.
There is still plenty of time for introducing the puppy to the kids and new environment.
To children must be explained that the dog is still a baby who needs rest and sleep (15-18 hours daily) to develop well. Your kids will probably be overexcited so please explain that they do not scream and that they do not go to much into puppy's space in first days. If the puppy sleeps, then let the puppy sleep.
There is still plenty of time for introducing the puppy to the kids and new environment.
PROTECT DANGEROUS AREAS AND FURNITURE
You should be very careful with stairs!
Puppy should not climb the stairs or go downstairs it is very dangerous for puppy bones and joints. You should carry your puppy over the stairs as long as possible.
If you live on several floors, it is best to leave the puppy on the main "living room" floor during the day and lock the stairs up or down with a suitable "baby door" so the puppy couldn’t jump over them.
Also consider all the possible dangers to the puppy and the possible places falls, eg stairs and balcony railings etc
Puppy should not climb the stairs or go downstairs it is very dangerous for puppy bones and joints. You should carry your puppy over the stairs as long as possible.
If you live on several floors, it is best to leave the puppy on the main "living room" floor during the day and lock the stairs up or down with a suitable "baby door" so the puppy couldn’t jump over them.
Also consider all the possible dangers to the puppy and the possible places falls, eg stairs and balcony railings etc
If you have low pieces of furniture with sharp edges, protect these edges so puppy cannot be injured while playing or running.
You should also consider to move away the rugs temporary from the rooms where puppy spends the most of time, until the puppy learn to poo and pee outside :)
Be careful with electric cables too, they are ideal prey for puppies and they will surely fight that scary snake.
All these things you should prepare before puppy arrival, so you may provide the puppy the calmest possible 1st day in a new home.
NEVER LET PUPPY OUT OF SIGHT WHEN PUPPY IS AWAKE!
NEVER LET PUPPY OUT OF SIGHT WHEN PUPPY IS AWAKE!
...and one more important thing!
CARRYING A PUPPY
When carrying a puppy, hold it so that its entire body is fully supported by the forearm, so always hold it with one hand under the buttocks.
You should never carry a dog on your back (like a cat or a cuddly toy). When laying on the ground, care should be taken to ensure that all four legs are securely placed on the floor. Never let a puppy fall or jump out of your hands (highest risk of injury).
Small children should not carry puppies!
When carrying a puppy, hold it so that its entire body is fully supported by the forearm, so always hold it with one hand under the buttocks.
You should never carry a dog on your back (like a cat or a cuddly toy). When laying on the ground, care should be taken to ensure that all four legs are securely placed on the floor. Never let a puppy fall or jump out of your hands (highest risk of injury).
Small children should not carry puppies!
When Lela and I decided to start breeding together, it was logical to lay some new foundations on the existing ones.
The logo was one of the first things we decided to make for our kennel.
A good logo should be distinctive, appropriate, memorable, versatile, practical, graphic and simple in form, and it should convey intended message.
Our logo supposed to contain the name of the kennel and visually best possible portray the Ridgeback breed.
There is no nicer scene than 2 ridgebacks in action. It was at such a moment that we both fell in love with the breed, when we saw Ridgebacks in action for the first time.
When playing what can be quite rough at times, the Ridgebacks are at their best in strength, agility, elegance and simply take everyone's breath away.
It was important to us that the logo also contains Ridge, the main feature of the breed and we definitely wanted logo to be "eyecatching" and simple.
Reviewing the archive photos, the idea came spontaneously when we saw a photo of two males levitate while playing on sand dunes in some kind of Michelangelo perfect composition.
That was it! :)
Somehow this composition merged perfectly with Neomele letters and their ridges on the back.
We just loved energy, power and the vibe of this moment.
Models on photography are:
Edip Neomele from E-litter (owned by Draženka Maričić)
Frodo Neomele from F-litter (owned by Maja Kljaić)
Both dogs have name "Bebe" and this also was so special about this photography.
We have designed the logo by ourselves :) and this is why we love it even more <3
Please keep it on mind that it is very important to be careful with puppy exercise and activities!
At the age of around 9 weeks you will bring your puppy home. In upcoming period you will really have to be very careful during puppy's growth because their bones do not even touch yet.
In this period puppies are totally sweet but also very vulnerable.
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Early Age Exercise
It is very important not to have your puppy jar or stress their limbs until the bones have joined.
Activities that can damage your puppy’s limbs are:
climbing stairs, jumping down from heights greater than themselves, falling down stairs, jumping on sofa, jumping off sofa, running uphill and downhill and even rough play with a larger dog. If you have stairs at home, carry your puppy when going up or down the stairs as long as you can carry their weight.
When you do not restrict their exercise you risk a lot!
But when you are letting puppy jump up and down off the sofa or bed, take them for long walks/hikes, letting them run uphill or especially downhill you are damaging their joints.
If you have tiles or slippery floors, have on mind that puppy is damaging joints if scrambles without traction!
Early Age Exercise
It is very important not to have your puppy jar or stress their limbs until the bones have joined.
Activities that can damage your puppy’s limbs are:
climbing stairs, jumping down from heights greater than themselves, falling down stairs, jumping on sofa, jumping off sofa, running uphill and downhill and even rough play with a larger dog. If you have stairs at home, carry your puppy when going up or down the stairs as long as you can carry their weight.
When you do not restrict their exercise you risk a lot!
But when you are letting puppy jump up and down off the sofa or bed, take them for long walks/hikes, letting them run uphill or especially downhill you are damaging their joints.
If you have tiles or slippery floors, have on mind that puppy is damaging joints if scrambles without traction!
So, keep it really easy while they're still little puppies.
One radiologist said very wise advice:
Take 5 minute walk per month of puppy age.
So, if your puppy is 3 months old, walks should not be longer than 15 minutes or if your pupp is 6 months old, 30 minute walks are just fine. Later you may increase the length of your walks. Doing so, you will not over exercise your pupp.
After the age of 16 weeks you can gradually increase exercise until by about 12 month of age when your dog will be ready for normal adult exercise of 2-5km or more each day.
Once grown you will have the rest of their life to spend playing in higher impact exercise.
Then it will come the time when you will be free to hike, to take long walks and your dog can play like crazy with other dogs.
But still, bicycle is still NO GO!
Rhodesians are slow growing breed and they grow till the age of 2 years, so till their 2nd year they should not run after you riding a bike.
When they will be ready for bike exercise, please have on mind that you have to start gradually to increase exercise (starting with length of 0,5km - 1 km, after one week 1-2km etc).
Your dog should trot and not gallop when going after you on bicycle.
Even the ball will probably NOT be point of interest to your Ridgeback, below you can read what does "ball chasing" to our dogs.
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It is really hard to decide which season is more beautiful because they all bring special beauty and vibe into our and our dogs life. After cold winter, we all get totally crazy and spend more time in nature to charge our batteries. Most of us know that we have protect our dogs against the ticks and the diseases they might bring to our RR's but except ticks (about which we will write special topic), there is more danger what our favourite season brings.
The Pine Caterpillars
This is a huge danger on Croatian coast and where else Pine trees grow and you should be alerted from the February till April when these caterpillars are becoming active and go out from their nests on the trees down to the ground.
They move on the ground in columns and are very dangerous for dogs because they have developed defense against predators. These are their hairs which in contact with the skin, cause strong local irritation, which is presumed not to be related to immune mechanisms, but to be a poisonous substance they contain.
In addition, their hair is also a strong allergen, so sensitive dogs (and humans!) can cause very strong allergic reactions and even an anaphylactic reaction.
The reaction can also be caused by a dead not just a live caterpillar.
The caterpillars are actually cute and represent a unique sight for our dog!
A little hairy animal walks on the floor and just lures dog to a little sniffing and pushing with his nose.
They also reportedly have a sweet smell that makes dogs try to eat it.
However, on contact, there is a sudden swelling of the muzzle, the eyes are closed, the whole head of the dog begins to itch terribly, and sometimes the reaction is so strong that the dogs even vomit. The tongue may swell so much that it is no longer possible to close the muzzle in a few minutes, and necrosis of the tongue may occur and parts of the tongue may fall off.
In such cases, veterinary intervention is urgently needed because there is a risk of swelling of the pharynx and airway obstruction.
They move on the ground in columns and are very dangerous for dogs because they have developed defense against predators. These are their hairs which in contact with the skin, cause strong local irritation, which is presumed not to be related to immune mechanisms, but to be a poisonous substance they contain.
In addition, their hair is also a strong allergen, so sensitive dogs (and humans!) can cause very strong allergic reactions and even an anaphylactic reaction.
The reaction can also be caused by a dead not just a live caterpillar.
The caterpillars are actually cute and represent a unique sight for our dog!
A little hairy animal walks on the floor and just lures dog to a little sniffing and pushing with his nose.
They also reportedly have a sweet smell that makes dogs try to eat it.
However, on contact, there is a sudden swelling of the muzzle, the eyes are closed, the whole head of the dog begins to itch terribly, and sometimes the reaction is so strong that the dogs even vomit. The tongue may swell so much that it is no longer possible to close the muzzle in a few minutes, and necrosis of the tongue may occur and parts of the tongue may fall off.
In such cases, veterinary intervention is urgently needed because there is a risk of swelling of the pharynx and airway obstruction.
Snakes
In the spring when snakes come out of their holes and they are extremely active, you should keep an eye on your dogs.
Do not let them move freely on the rocks, forests and tall grass where these two deadly poisonous animals that live in our areas - Riđovka and Poskok - could be found.
Do not let them move freely on the rocks, forests and tall grass where these two deadly poisonous animals that live in our areas - Riđovka and Poskok - could be found.
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Poisonous plants from our environment
Dogs often, especially puppies like to bite and pick plants they come across either in the house or in their environment. Be careful not to bite or chew on parts of plants that are poisonous as this can be fatal for them! Try removing those plants or fencing until the puppy grows up!
Common symptoms of plant poisoning
• Pronounced salivation and drooling
• Irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes and lips
• Nausea
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Respiratory disorders
• Lethargy
• Uncoordinated movement
• Excitement - irritability
• Dehydration
• Loss of appetite
• Different forms of epi attacks
• Loss of consciousness and coma
Usually we hear from people: " We do not need papers (pedigree), we have no plans for attending dog shows!" This is so wrong! Pedigree is so much more!
Unfortunately, lot of people are not educated enough and have no idea what the pedigree is.
Pedigree is not a "piece of paper" needed for attending dog shows, pedigree is much, much more and people who plan to buy a puppy should really buy a puppy with a pedigree.
The pedigree can be obtained by any dog bred in the Republic of Croatia that is registered in the Croatian Pedigree Book.
The pedigree must be marked by the International (FCI - Federation Cynologique Internationale) and Croatian Kennel Club (HKS - Croatian Kennel Club) and has to contain data for the registration of the dog and three even four generations of ancestors.
In Croatia it is valid only when certified by the seal of the HKS, the signature of the head of the pedigree book of the HKS and when it has one of the types of marking the dog - microchip number.
When you have all of these, you can be sure you have pure breed dog!
But still, choose your breeder carefully - just because you're buying a pedigree dog, it doesn't mean also that the person you're buying from is a responsible breeder.
Responsible breeders do genetic testing of their dogs, x-ray rated by the Veterinary University and breed only with healthy and stabile dogs from the healthy bloodlines which have passed breeding exams and are pure representatives of the breed.
When buying a puppy, ask your breeder to show you all health test documents and champion certificates!!!
On the breeding exam, only those individuals that meet the breed standards (anatomy and the character) can obtain a breeding permit. For breeding exam dogs have to be over one year of age, and if they meet all the conditions prescribed by the above regulations, they receive a breeding permit and can be used for breeding. There are lot of regulations which breeders have to fulfill and this is why having a "pedigree dog" is so important.
After the puppies have been officially checked by the "Head of breeding" (HKS), the litter must be registered no earlier than six and no later than twelve weeks.
The pedigree is sent or given to the new owner within that period.
So don't fall for stories like "I didn't write them yet, but if you will ever need a pedigree, you can ask the Kennel club to gain it."
After the period of twelve weeks you will not be able to acquire it!
Pedigree is not a "piece of paper" needed for attending dog shows, pedigree is much, much more and people who plan to buy a puppy should really buy a puppy with a pedigree.
The pedigree can be obtained by any dog bred in the Republic of Croatia that is registered in the Croatian Pedigree Book.
The pedigree must be marked by the International (FCI - Federation Cynologique Internationale) and Croatian Kennel Club (HKS - Croatian Kennel Club) and has to contain data for the registration of the dog and three even four generations of ancestors.
In Croatia it is valid only when certified by the seal of the HKS, the signature of the head of the pedigree book of the HKS and when it has one of the types of marking the dog - microchip number.
When you have all of these, you can be sure you have pure breed dog!
But still, choose your breeder carefully - just because you're buying a pedigree dog, it doesn't mean also that the person you're buying from is a responsible breeder.
Responsible breeders do genetic testing of their dogs, x-ray rated by the Veterinary University and breed only with healthy and stabile dogs from the healthy bloodlines which have passed breeding exams and are pure representatives of the breed.
When buying a puppy, ask your breeder to show you all health test documents and champion certificates!!!
On the breeding exam, only those individuals that meet the breed standards (anatomy and the character) can obtain a breeding permit. For breeding exam dogs have to be over one year of age, and if they meet all the conditions prescribed by the above regulations, they receive a breeding permit and can be used for breeding. There are lot of regulations which breeders have to fulfill and this is why having a "pedigree dog" is so important.
After the puppies have been officially checked by the "Head of breeding" (HKS), the litter must be registered no earlier than six and no later than twelve weeks.
The pedigree is sent or given to the new owner within that period.
So don't fall for stories like "I didn't write them yet, but if you will ever need a pedigree, you can ask the Kennel club to gain it."
After the period of twelve weeks you will not be able to acquire it!
Buy your dog only at the breeders registered at the Croatian kennel club (HKS)!
Kennels registered only at the Ministry of Agriculture is
NO GO!
Ministry of Agriculture legitimizes the activity of breeding pets intended for sale without a pedigree. Namely, according to the new Animal Protection Act (Narodne novine 102/17 and 32/19), it can also be "the owner of three or more females of animals of the same species" who do not have to have a pedigree or passed a breeding examination.
The law in this case allows "backyard breeding!"
Backyard breeding is the practice of mating dogs with very little planning, preparation, and care for the future progenies.
Backyard breeders are often considered unethical dog breeders with profit-obsessed motivations.
They may let dogs reproduce freely without knowledge of their family histories (health and behavioral). They pay little or no attention to genetic health issues in both the parents and the puppies. They often charge less money for the puppies than a responsible breeder, but still more money than they should
(no one should pay for puppies that were bred carelessly).
And indeed this law, only seemingly "regulates" the breeding of pets intended for sale in Article 54.
Breeders registrated only at the Ministry of Agriculture are not under control, their dogs are not genetically checked, x-rayed, they do not know anything about bloodlines, hereditary diseases, they are not attending breeding exams, etc. They probably do not have proper conditions for having puppies, their bitches are usualy birth machines. They just mate and sell dogs and this is very dangerous.
It is dangerous for the breed and also for the future owners.
Price should never be the tipping point when buying a puppy.
Responsible breeders have higher prices. If you see advertisement with a pretty low price, think twice!
If so, you are bound to turn a blind eye for a lower price tag, often completely unconsciously. This is what backyard breeders rely on to thrive: people accepting the unacceptable.
These dogs may seem less expensive, but in the long run, you may end up paying more for these dogs when health issues develop. In many cases, these dogs suffer because of health issues and these breeders will not take their puppies back if something goes wrong.
NO GO!
Ministry of Agriculture legitimizes the activity of breeding pets intended for sale without a pedigree. Namely, according to the new Animal Protection Act (Narodne novine 102/17 and 32/19), it can also be "the owner of three or more females of animals of the same species" who do not have to have a pedigree or passed a breeding examination.
The law in this case allows "backyard breeding!"
Backyard breeding is the practice of mating dogs with very little planning, preparation, and care for the future progenies.
Backyard breeders are often considered unethical dog breeders with profit-obsessed motivations.
They may let dogs reproduce freely without knowledge of their family histories (health and behavioral). They pay little or no attention to genetic health issues in both the parents and the puppies. They often charge less money for the puppies than a responsible breeder, but still more money than they should
(no one should pay for puppies that were bred carelessly).
And indeed this law, only seemingly "regulates" the breeding of pets intended for sale in Article 54.
Breeders registrated only at the Ministry of Agriculture are not under control, their dogs are not genetically checked, x-rayed, they do not know anything about bloodlines, hereditary diseases, they are not attending breeding exams, etc. They probably do not have proper conditions for having puppies, their bitches are usualy birth machines. They just mate and sell dogs and this is very dangerous.
It is dangerous for the breed and also for the future owners.
Price should never be the tipping point when buying a puppy.
Responsible breeders have higher prices. If you see advertisement with a pretty low price, think twice!
If so, you are bound to turn a blind eye for a lower price tag, often completely unconsciously. This is what backyard breeders rely on to thrive: people accepting the unacceptable.
These dogs may seem less expensive, but in the long run, you may end up paying more for these dogs when health issues develop. In many cases, these dogs suffer because of health issues and these breeders will not take their puppies back if something goes wrong.
